Archive for the ‘Texas Road Trip’ Category

February 25, 2011

evil plans: please look after this englishman

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[“Bur­den”: You can buy the print here etc.]

My old buddy from my early Lon­don social media days, Lloyd Davis has an Evil Plan. A US road trip with a big social media angle:

“Please Look After This Englishman”.

In March 2010, I tra­veled, some­ti­mes with others, some­ti­mes alone, coast-to-coast across the USA from Bos­ton to Los Ange­les. Our main method of trans­por­ta­tion was the train – We chose to pre-plan our iti­ne­rary and to orga­nise twee­tups whe­re­ver we could in order to meet peo­ple and make new connections.

One of our goals was to visit the SXSWi fes­ti­val in Aus­tin TX via a more inte­res­ting route than direct flight nut pri­ma­rily we wan­ted to see whether it could be done and what help our online social net­works could be.

I lear­ned that let­ting go of con­trol of where we were sta­ying and what we would do led to far richer expe­rien­ces. Yes it was inte­res­ting and exci­ting to meet new peo­ple and those I’d only ever twee­ted at but the high­points of the jour­ney inc­lu­ded not kno­wing where we were going to stay in New Orleans until a friend of a friend lent us her house for four days or when I unex­pec­tedly found myself pla­ying uku­lele with 25 Hawaiian-shirted senior citi­zens in Mary­land.

South By South West is an annual pil­gri­mage for a lot of peo­ple. Lloyd likes to take that annual SXSW pil­gri­mage to an extreme. An annual spi­ri­tual search, as it were. “Aus­tin as Jeru­sa­lem 2.0″, as it were. As oppo­sed to just another trade show for han­ding out busi­ness cards, get­ting drunk and han­ging out in strip clubs. It’s ins­pi­ring to see…

[Got a good #Evil­Plans story you want to share? Feel free to ping me via gapingvoid@gmail.com, Thanks!]

May 16, 2010

i’ve taken up kung fu again…

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[Alpine, Texas. Wal­king up Han­cock Hill ear­lier this eve­ning. Part of my new trai­ning regime etc.]

Anthony Arrigo, my old Kung-Fu buddy from my time in New York is in town for a few days. He’s got­ten me back on the wagon. Long story. Watch this space etc.

P.S. Today was seriously the har­dest wor­kout I’ve had in years…

April 9, 2010

far west texas

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[High Moun­tain Desert. Route 60, Far West Texas. This is one of the views I have on the drive home from El Paso airport.]

The lon­ger I live out here, the har­der it is to ima­gine living somewhere else…

March 10, 2010

notes on sxsw 2010

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[“Texas”, which I sent out in the news­let­ter recently. You can buy the print here etc.]

Tomo­rrow I head for Aus­tin, for the annual 5-day drun­ken orgy that is South By South West Inte­rac­tive. Here are some thoughts:

1. SXSW is the only “MUST ATTEND” event on my calen­dar. It’s the one show I never miss, ever. Unless you’ve already been, it’s hard to con­vey JUST HOW MUCH more fun, inte­res­ting and full of busi­ness oppor­tu­ni­ties it is, com­pa­red to other shows. I can’t empha­size enough, if you’re into the Inter­net, just how much you’re mis­sing out if choose not to attend. Sure, the price of going [entry fee, plane fare, hotel bill, taxi rides etc] might be quite daun­ting for some of us, but com­pa­red to the busi­ness and net­wor­king you could EASILY end up doing there, that cost is minuscule.

2. So you thought last year was crazy? Last year had ten thou­sand atten­dees. I heard on good autho­rity from some­body inside the org that this year’s num­bers have dou­bled. Hope you got a good hotel booking.

3. I’m on a panel on Mon­day. I hope you’ll come see us. All the other pane­lists are good friends of mine, so it should be fun…

4. I’ll be sig­ning books. Bar­nes & Noble will have a little micro store on the fourth floor of the con­ven­tion cen­ter, selling books writ­ten by some of the atten­dees. I’ll be there to sign copies of “Ignore Every­body” on Mon­day, March 15th at 5.20pm. My sig­ning will last for 30 minutes.

5. Free Booze! Free Sex! A lot of com­pa­nies spon­sor par­ties, so as long as you have a pass, it’s pretty easy to go the entire five days without ever paying for a sin­gle drink or meal. Plus with all the young sin­gles everywhere, everybody’s trying to get laid. X-thousand geek twenty-somthings trying to hook up en masse is pretty enter­tai­ning to watch. By Sun­day or Mon­day everybody’s a bas­ket case.Which is why the vete­rans are always telling the new­bies, “Pace Yourself”.

6. Crea­ting an island of calm in a sea of bodies. It’s going to be a madhouse this year, so to make our­sel­ves easier to find,  gaping­void has hired a trade show booth for the event. If you want to meet up, that’s where you can find me. I’ll be selling art, doing busi­ness, sig­ning dra­wings and exchan­ging busi­ness cards. My focus this year will be much more about busi­ness, than my usual hall­way wanderings.

7. I’m bet­ter orga­ni­zed, this time. Pretty much all the par­ties and events I’m plan­ning to attend are already in my calen­dar. In past  years I just tur­ned up and went with the flow. It was exhaus­ting after about three days. Never again.

8. Follow me on Twit­ter if you want to see what I’m up to on the day. Heck, that’s what every­body else uses, too.

9. SXSW makes me proud to be Texan. I’ve seen this a lot: Peo­ple come to Texas for the first time to attend SXSW, and “fall in love with the bar­be­cue”. Texas has always been a very misun­ders­tood State, if you ask me. SXSW does a great job of hel­ping to fix that, at least with my crowd.

December 7, 2009

west texas

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091207a

[About Hugh. Car­toon Archive. Sign up for my “Daily Car­toon” News­let­ter.]

September 16, 2009

what’s your coping mechanism?

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lums0909Lum’s Bar­be­cue, Junc­tion, Texas. This is where I nor­mally stop for lunch when I drive bet­ween Alpine and Aus­tin. Just over halfway.

That smoker’s been there over 3o years, they tell me. And the guy who smo­kes the meat has been there even longer.

One more rea­son to love living out here.

Peo­ple were quite sur­pri­sed when I moved out to Alpine, nearly two years ago. They had got­ten used to me being from New York or London.

But I had always ima­gi­ned ending up somewhere like here even­tually. It was just a case of wai­ting for both the Inter­net and the ol’ art career to reach a cer­tain cri­ti­cal mass. When that day finally arri­ved, the move hap­pe­ned rather quickly.

And it could not have hap­pe­ned at a bet­ter time. In the last few months busi­ness has got­ten a lot more hec­tic. For rea­sons still unc­lear to me, the pri­vate com­mis­sions just star­ted coming in fas­ter and fas­ter. Why now, I won­der? I don’t think I cold have coped with it nearly as well, living in a big city.

As I’m fond of saying, Suc­cess is more com­plex than Fai­lure. This quiet, pared-down, ungla­mo­rous, low-maintenance West Texas life in the high desert seems to be my way of dea­ling with it.

What’s your coping mechanism?

[Backs­tory: About Hugh. E-mail Hugh. Twit­ter. News­let­ter. Book. Inter­view One. Inter­view Two. EVIL PLANS. Limi­ted Edi­tion Prints. Pri­vate Com­mis­sions. Cube Gre­na­des.]

August 27, 2009

the marfa series

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square333A.jpg
[Click on image to enlarge etc.]
Gree­tings from Alpine, Texas. I left here two days ago, and flew to New York City from El Paso [a 220 mile drive to the air­port], in order to sign the the Ignore Every­body prints.
Yes, it was actually chea­per and easier to fly up there and sign them, than to ship them down here. Go figure.
After a few hours sig­ning them at the printer’s, I rushed off the Island of Manhat­tan yes­ter­day after­noon, to catch a flight back to El Paso via DFW.
I was in my bed at the hotel in El Paso by mid­night. Slept like a log. This mor­ning I went to buy some art sup­plies in down­town El Paso, had a bit of lunch at Rudy’s, then drove 220 miles back home to Alpine.
A quick visit, to say the least. “Wel­come To The Over-Extended Class” etc.
Among my purcha­ses this mor­ning was a big roll of can­vas. The plan is to make a series of large, 48“x48” [4 foot-by-4 foot] can­va­ses, i.e. exactly the same height, and one-half the width of desert­manhat­tan. The wee sketch above should give you an idea what I’m tal­king about.
I’m thin­king of calling these “The Marfa Series”, named after Marfa, the next town over from Alpine, 26 miles away. I drive there and back about three or four times a week; it’s one of my favo­rite dri­ves in the world. The drive ins­pi­red the idea for the the series in a SERIOUSLY big way.
Some will be cran­ked out in a cou­ple of days. Some will take a lot lon­ger, even a cou­ple of months. I have no idea where this is taking me, other than I think I’ll end up somewhere pretty inte­res­ting. Look for them for sale over on the gallery over the next few months or so, or feel free to e-mail me if you’re loo­king to com­mis­sion one. Thanks.
[Backs­tory: About Hugh. Twit­ter. News­let­ter. Book. Inter­view One. Inter­view Two. EVIL PLANS. Limi­ted Edi­tion Prints. Pri­vate Com­mis­sions. Cube Gre­na­des.]

August 5, 2009

stormhoek bottles

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bottle002.jpg
[A print idea for #evil­plans. Click on image to enlarge etc.]

EUREKA! I had my EVIL PLANS road trip idea, but it was lac­king the social object it nee­ded to really work.
Sure, dri­ving around Texas with a video camera and an idea about “Dream Big” was all very well, but it nee­ded something to work as a totem for the Stormhoek wine.
IDEA: Hand-painted wine bott­les.
I’ve drawn on Stormhoek wine bott­les before, using pain­ting sticks. They loo­ked kinda cool. While I tra­vel around Texas, I’ll be making them to hand out to peo­ple who went to all the trou­ble to sup­port this enter­prise. See image above to get a rough idea what it might look like…
This is exci­ting. The road trip idea is sud­denly A LOT More inte­res­ting, all of a sud­den. Rock on.

[Update: Just added this blog post to EVIL PLANS.]

July 26, 2009

stormhoek, terlingua

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[Never a dull moment in West Texas etc. A video of me telling some local peo­ple down in Ter­lin­gua all about Stormhoek.]
I recently made the acquain­tance of the pro­prie­tors of both The Star­light Thea­ter and La Kiva, two pro­mi­nent bars down in Ter­lin­gua. The mee­tings went well– I liked them both, they see­med to like me. So it looks like we might be selling down there, fin­gers cros­sed. Hurrah!
Ter­lin­gua, 100 miles South of Alpine, Texas, right on the Mexi­can bor­der, is pro­bably the stran­gest place I’ve ever visi­ted in my life– it has an unrea­lity to it quite unlike anything else I’ve ever seen. But there’s a won­der­ful appeal to it, that’s for sure. If you ever wan­ted to know what it was like to be living in the old Wild West, this is pro­bably as close as you’re going to get, first hand. The peo­ple, archi­tec­ture and lands­cape seem right out of a Sam Pec­kin­pah movie.
So why try selling South Afri­can wine in Ter­lin­gua? “Futile Mar­ke­ting”, of course…

[Backs­tory: About Hugh. Twit­ter. News­let­ter. Book. Inter­view One. Inter­view Two. Limi­ted Edi­tion Prints. Pri­vate Com­mis­sions. Cube Gre­na­des.“EVIL PLANS”.]

June 21, 2009

gapingvoid is proud to present: THE WORST MARKETING IDEA EVER!!!!!

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[My pal, Jef­fro sin­ging at Harry’s Tinaja, Alpine, Texas.]
I’m taking to the road. Here are some notes:
1. Now that IGNORE EVERYBODY is done and in the book sto­res, it’s time to do something else. In the last cou­ple of days, I’ve got­ten seve­ral emails from peo­ple that they saw the book selling in air­port bookshops. Wow. It doesn’t get any more “mains­tream” that that, I’m happy to report. At least I can’t accuse it of being “undis­co­ve­red”. And for me, as a blog­ger, it’s nice to be able to break out of the Web 2.0 echo cham­ber. Exactly.
2. So I was having a drink with a friend the other day, and he asked me what my next plan was. I told him, in no uncer­tain terms, that “I’m going to go on the road, and stay on the road, until Stormhoek is the best selling South Afri­can wine in Texas.”
3. I’m brin­ging my com­pu­ter along. I’ll be blog­ging my adven­tu­res en route. Hoping to be pos­ting travel-diary videos on You­Tube as well.
4. I’ll be limi­ting my tra­vels to the State of Texas. Luc­kily it’s a big State and there’s plenty to dis­co­ver.
5. I’m brin­ging my com­pu­ter along. I’ll be wor­king on my second book while I’m tra­ve­ling. I have a vague idea what it’s about…
6. I’m brin­ging my com­pu­ter along. I hoping to meet other Texan blog­gers and Twit­ters on my tra­vels.
7. Hoping to draw a lot of new car­toons en route as well. Hoping that some new prints will come out of it.
8. I don’t really have a plan. But I am lea­ving as soon as I can get orga­ni­zed. You’ll be able to follow my adven­ture on Twit­ter easily enough.
9. This idea will pro­bably fail. “Futile Mar­ke­ting” etc. Rock on.
10. [Update:] Just Twit­te­red this blog post: “@gaping­void is proud to pre­sent: THE WORST MARKETING IDEA EVER!!!!!” Yep. That’s about right…
[etc: About Hugh. Inter­view. News­let­ter. Book. Limi­ted Edi­tion Prints. Pri­vate Com­mis­sions. Cube Gre­na­des. Hugh­train.]

June 18, 2009

road trip?

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[Mar­ke­ting. It’s a dirty job, but someone’s gotta do it…]
With all the acti­vity over IGNORE EVERYBODY and the prints these last few months, I was get­ting frus­tra­ted that I wasn’t spen­ding more time on the Stormhoek pro­ject.
It’s hard to do everything.…
The wine is selling well here in Alpine, Texas. It’s a small town of six thou­sand, word is easy to spread if you’re doing something inte­res­ting. But I have my eyes set on big­ger hori­zons.
Like I said before, I’m just going to focus the mar­ke­ting efforts on the State of Texas. Doing the whole country is just WAY too com­pli­ca­ted, not to men­tion expen­sive.
I’ve asked our dis­tri­bu­tors to send me a list of all the sto­res, bars and res­tau­rants that they cover in Texas. I’m thin­king of going on a road trip. I’m thin­king of visi­ting some of these pla­ces. I’m thin­king of brin­ging a video camera along. I’m thin­king of asking Jef­fro to come with me, at least for part of it.
I’m just thin­king…
[etc: About Hugh. Inter­view. News­let­ter. Book. Limi­ted Edi­tion Prints. Pri­vate Com­mis­sions. Cube Gre­na­des. Hugh­train.]

April 13, 2008

cartooning in texas

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marfaplain3444.jpg
[Pic­ture taken from the Marfa Plain, loo­king Southeast, about 15 miles West of Alpine, Texas. Cathe­dral Moun­tain in the dis­tance.]
I’m wri­ting this from Miami. Hea­ding back to West Texas tomo­rrow. I woke up this mor­ning loo­king for­ward to my return, so what the heck, I pos­ted the photo above.
JP Ran­gas­wami is in town on vaca­tion; Jason and I met him and his lovely family two night ago for drinks [Talk about well-brought-up chil­dren. Gosh. Off the scale.].
We tal­ked briefly about me being in Alpine. “It seems like you nee­ded to take your foot off the acce­le­ra­tor,” he said. Yup. That’s about it.
Yes­ter­day I wrote about making more limi­ted edi­tion prints for Stormhoek:

2. Litho­graphs. We had a lot of good for­tune crea­ting limi­ted edi­tion, fine art prints. Everything from the Blue Mons­ter series, to the Techc­runch party pos­ter. Basi­cally, I want to spend a LOT OF TIME in the next year, sig­ning limi­ted edi­tion litho­graphs and get­ting them in to the hands of any­body who may want one. These litho­graphs will hope­fully become “Social Objects”, which anyone who knows me will know, I believe is the future of mar­ke­ting. It is my belief that, if we can get enough of them prin­ted, sig­ned and out there, they’ll create enough inte­res­ting con­ver­sa­tions which will INDIRECTLY move a lot of cases of wine . The big ques­tion is, [A] How many prints would I need to sign in order to make that hap­pen and [B] If the ans­wer is, “A Lot”, will I have the time, dis­ci­pline and sta­mina to go the dis­tance? Yes, it’s a huge cha­llenge. Then again, so is clim­bing Mount Everest.

And a few days ago I wrote about lan­ding a book deal with Pen­guin. “Exci­ting News etc.“
The needs of being a car­too­nist, and the needs of being a “Web 2.0 mar­ke­ting guy” are very dif­fe­rent. Though it wasn’t an over­night deci­sion, recently I deci­ded to re-adjust my life to something that was more con­du­cive to being the for­mer, as oppo­sed to be the lat­ter.
Was this a wise move? We’ll see. What is a Web 2.0 mar­ke­ting guy, any­way? Some­body who gets paid to have “Ever-Fragmenting Con­ver­sa­tions about Ever-Fragmenting Con­ver­sa­tions.” Com­pa­red to tarring roofs in Texas in sum­mer, it’s not a bad job, but… Wha­te­ver.
But one hun­dred years from now, I’ll be dead, and this web­site will be gone. Nobody will be tal­king about Web 2.0 any­more. But a wee voice tells me some of the car­toons will be still floa­ting around, maybe online, maybe in books, maybe one or two of the ori­gi­nals will be han­ging in pri­vate collec­tions.
And God Willing, some of the jokes will still be funny…

March 23, 2008

more notes from west texas 2

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cathedralmountain2222.jpg
[Cathe­dral Moun­tain, 6,122ft. Pic­ture taken bu my father, about 20 miles South of Alpine, Texas.]
It’s been just over a week since I got back to Alpine after SXSW Inte­rac­tive. Here are some ran­dom notes.
1. I’ve not much to report, to be honest. I’ve deli­be­ra­tely been living as slowly and quietly as pos­si­ble. I think a lot of us are still reco­ve­ring from SXSW.
2. I have no idea how long I will stay in Alpine. All that I know is that I don’t want to leave right now. I have no plans of going anywhere else, except on busi­ness.
3. It looks like I found me an office. Sul Ross [the local uni­ver­sity] rents out some office units as part of some sort of “Entre­pre­neur Cen­ter” pro­gram that they’re run­ning. Fax, pho­to­co­pier, all that good stuff. Cost: about $150 dollars a month.
4. Hou­sing is not a pro­blem, either. I was sta­ying with my dad and step­mom, but recently I moved into a cheap and cheer­ful motel. Hotels, Motels and ren­ted pla­ces go for bet­ween $500 and $1000 a month, which after Lon­don and New York, is not something that worries me too much. Hou­sing pri­ces are about $80-$150K, which again, com­pa­red to what I was used to seeing in Europe, is pea­nuts.
5. If I decide to stay for a long time, I’ll need to buy me a car. I’m thin­king a used pic­kup truck, the kind that runs fore­ver. The local clas­si­fied ads are awash with them. In the mean­time, I just pla­ced an order for a new Raleigh from the local bike shop. The town is pretty flat, and only two miles at its widest, so get­ting around isn’t much of a pro­blem.
6. Dad and I had a fun time a few days ago, dri­ving up to Odessa, Texas, 140 North East of here. He had a doctor’s appoint­ment up at the Medi­cal Cen­tre there, and I had to go to the Social Secu­rity office to get me a new copy of my Social Secu­rity card, in order that I could reapply for my old Texas driver’s license. Inc­lu­ding the wait in line, I was in and out of the office inside ten minu­tes, I kid you not. Could you ima­gine how long that would have taken had I been in New York, Lon­don, or Paris?
7. About thirty miles North of Alpine you start lea­ving the moun­tains and start ente­ring the cot­ton fields. Flat lands­ca­pes that seem to go on fore­ver, inte­rrup­ted only by tele­graph poles. They’re gro­wing some cot­ton up there, but a lot of the field are not being currently used– the current high price of oil makes run­ning the irri­ga­tion machi­nery prohi­bi­tive. A bit further North and you start ente­ring oil country ands the Odessa envi­rons. Oil Derrecks, Pump­jacks, and lots of semi-ghost town with disu­sed mobile homes and spare parts lying around the place. It takes a lot more peo­ple to set up the oil fields than it takes to main­tain them, so aban­do­ned dwe­llings are a pretty com­mon sight.
8. Up in this part of the world [50 – 100 miles North of Alpine] the one thing you don’t see is a lot of cattle. There simply isn’t enough water for them in those parts, so I’m told.
9. Once you enter oil country you are imme­dia­tely hit by the rather unplea­sant smell of the oil and gas fields. The locals like the smell, though. “Smells like money,” as they like to say.
10. There’s not much I can tell you about Odessa. On first impres­sion, it’s not a pretty place. About 100,000 peo­ple. Pick-up trucks, Strip malls, bun­ga­lows, oil industry stuff and little else. The afo­re­men­tio­ned medi­cal cen­ter and the current high price of oil seem to be the main eco­no­mic engine.
11. We never made it to Mid­land, the next town over from Odessa, about 30 miles East. That’s where George W. Bush calls home. I’m told it’s not too dif­fe­rent from Odessa, only a bit more ups­cale; Gene­rally it’s regar­ded as the nicer town of the two. This is where you catch a plane if you’re hea­ding East, from Midland-Odessa air­port. If you’re hea­ding to the West Coast from Alpine, you fly out of El Paso.
12. While Dad went for his doctor’s appoint­ment, after I had got­ten my Social Secu­rity busi­ness sett­led, to my delight I found a Star­bucks only a block or two away. So I orde­red my usual Grande Latte, hoo­ked up my com­pu­ter to the inter­net and ente­red the same world I enter when I’m in Alpine, New York or Lon­don. The inter­net has become the great leve­ler for me.
13. Though hardly the most authen­tic place in the world, if you want cheap and cheer­ful Ita­lian cui­sine in Odessa, you could do a lot worse than go to Corino’s. The peo­ple there are pretty friendly.
14. My inten­tion is, once I get sett­led [Place to live, office, car, driver’s license etc], my plan is to go into over­drive for a cou­ple of months. I have a lot of work nee­ding done.
15. Happy Eas­ter, Everybody!

February 20, 2008

notes from west texas

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marfa672.jpg
[A still from “No Country For Old Men”, which was fil­med around Marfa, the next town over from Alpine, Texas, where my father lives. “There Will Be Blood” was fil­med around here, as well.]
This is my sixth full day in Alpine. Here are some notes on my time here so far, in no par­ti­cu­lar order:
1. Alpine, popu­la­tion circa 6,000, is actually a pretty pros­pe­rous place as far as West Texas towns go. This is mainly due to Sul Ross State Uni­ver­sity, where my dad used to teach before he reti­red. Besi­des that, the main industry round these parts is ranching. 10,000 acres is con­si­de­red a small ranch. Some ranches have over 200,000 acres.
2. My main day­time han­gout in town is La Trat­to­ria, a chilled-out bis­tro that ser­ves as a cof­fee shop by day, with exce­llent, authen­tic Ita­lian food by night. Owned and ope­ra­ted by Ally­son San­tucci [a great, strong lady], their web­site is here.
3. Eve­nings I don’t go out much. I just stay in and talk to my dad. We’ve not seen each other in a few years, so it’s a good thing.
4. I haven’t been this chi­lled out and rela­xed since.… ummmmm.… the last time I was in Alpine, Sep­tem­ber, 1999. Funny, that.
5. It’s not offi­cial, and I’m just going to play it by ear, but I’m thin­king of making Alpine my per­ma­nent US base. A lot depends on how many gigs I get this side of the Atlan­tic in 2008.
6. If I ever end up living per­ma­nently in the US again, it’ll be here. Nowhere else.
7. “Loca­ted 3 miles East of Marfa, Texas on US High­way 67/90, the vine­yard and winery are surroun­ded by awe-inspiring Desert Moun­tain Ran­ges. Our West Texas sun­sets over the moun­tains are spec­ta­cu­lar, and Luz de Estre­lla is per­fectly posi­tio­ned to take full advan­tage of them.” Appa­rently this is the best wine made in Texas. They sell their wines at Whole Foods Mar­ket, all over. I visi­ted their winery ear­lier today. I was impres­sed. Not just by the wine, but also the fact that they have real Texas Longhorn cattle on the pro­perty.
8. My father is a trai­ned geo­lo­gist. Since reti­ring from his teaching gig, he’s been publishing his own books. He wri­tes about the local geo­logy. He actually sells a heck of a lot of them ’round here– simply because a lot of folk who visit here want to know more than WHAT the moun­tains and desert looks like, they also want to know WHY they look the way they do. And nobody does this bet­ter than my father. My good friend, Doc Searls, a geo­logy geek, was rea­ding his stuff even before he knew that we two MacLeod’s were rela­ted. Backs­tory here. Small world.
9. Yes­ter­day eve­ning, after spen­ding the after­noon wor­king in the library at Sul Ross, I pop­ped into La Trat­to­ria for an end-of-day glass of wine. In the cor­ner was pla­ying a FABULOUS acous­tic four piece C&W act, called The Dood­lin’ Hog­wa­llops. Their MyS­pace page is here. All young men, I’m gues­sing the ave­rage age was about 26. The lead sin­ger, Neal, was a REALLY talen­ted musi­cian. Seriously. His ori­gi­nal songs were just as fresh and ins­pi­ring as the clas­sics he also cove­red. Though I make no claims to be a par­ti­cu­larly gif­ted talent-scout, I found their act a truly moving expe­rience. I hope you’ll check them out if you ever get a chance. I’ve already pro­mi­sed myself I’d tell cer­tain friends of mine in the music busi­ness about them. Rock on.
10. Marfa, popu­la­tion circa 2100, the place made famous in the art world by Donal Judd, is the next town over from Alpine. Though it’s not a town without its charms, and for all its newly acqui­red, art-world tren­di­ness, it seems a lot more run-down than Alpine. I can see why the film­ma­kers like using it as a cine­ma­tic back­drop. For some rea­son there it’s easy for a film­ma­ker to pro­ject “God­less & Bleak” through the camera lens, although I find the actual lands­cape in real life anything but. Appa­rently the New York and Holly­wood crowd love to fly in there for the wee­kend, but week­days I hear it’s a bit of a ghost town. Ear­lier today my father and I visi­ted the town for lunch. He knows a lot of peo­ple there, who sell his books. Vicki over at The Hotel Pai­sano springs most to mind. She’s done a great job run­ning the retail store there. This hotel, a local archi­tec­tu­ral land­mark, was where James Dean and Liz Tay­lor sta­yed while fil­ming “Giant”, all those years ago.
11. They say you can always tell the his­tory of a place by their most pro­mi­nent buil­dings. In Europe, we’re tal­king cast­les, pala­ces and cathe­drals. New York we’re tal­king office buil­dings. In West Texas, it’s inva­riably the county courthouse. His­to­ri­cally, the esta­blish­ment of Law & Order is a big deal here, and the more one knows of the local his­tory, the less one is sur­pri­sed. The Pre­si­dio County Courthouse in Marfa I find espe­cially trippy, but in a good way, the same way I find Paris’ Sacre-Coeur pretty trippy etc.
12. This part of the world is full of real, wor­king ranches, and real, wor­king cow­boys. The lat­ter are an impres­sive lot in real life– I would not recom­mend mes­sing with them. They’re a much dif­fe­rent breed from the cowboy-hat wea­ring red­necks from my oil rig days, though I still hold lots of affec­tion for the lat­ter [I occa­sio­nally wor­ked offshore in the Gulf of Mexico during my college days]. After all, cow­boys phy­si­cally wrestle with cattle all day long [a sur­pri­singly strong, robust, and vio­lent beast], so they’re not exactly inti­mi­da­ted by us city-slicker or “Urban Cow­boy” types, truth be told. Wai­ting in the cof­fee line at La Trat­to­ria yes­ter­day mor­ning, in front of me was a young cow­boy get­ting his mor­ning Joe. Seeing a real cow­boy orde­ring a caffe latte is a real dis­con­nect, somehow. You can tell they’re real cow­boys five ways: 1. They’re built like oxen on ste­roids, with hands the size of base­ball mitts. 2. They’re wea­ring spurs. 3. Their cow­boy boots go over their knees. 4. They seem to have this uncanny com­bi­na­tion of [A] a hap­pily calm dis­po­si­tion, seam­lessly mixed with [B] a pal­pa­ble under­cu­rrent of “I can, and will hap­pily rip you in half, in less than three seconds, but only if I gotta”. Not a bad combo to have. 5. They’re sur­pri­singly young. Like the movie says, “No Country For Old Men”.
13. West Texan inte­rac­tion is all about mas­te­ring two arts. [A] Being genui­nely friendly and cour­teous, espe­cially to women, chil­dren and the elderly. [B] Spea­king with as few words as pos­si­ble. You need to be able to do both, and do them well, or else they look at you funny. Again, not a bad combo to have.
14. A nice two bedroom house in this town goes for around $100K or so. In Lon­don, you’d be lucky to get a tool shed for that amount. For someone see­king inc­rea­singly high levels of soli­tude, I find the pro­perty mar­ket here sorely temp­ting.
15. The big tou­rist draw in this neck of the woods is Big Bend Natio­nal Park, which I’ve never been to before. 120 miles South of here, Dad and I are hope­fully chec­king it out tomo­rrow. Watch this space.

February 15, 2008

greetings from alpine, texas

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[View of Apline, Texas from my dad’s porch. Twin Peaks moun­tain in the back­ground. Click on image to enlarge etc.]
[UPDATE: It seems my cellphone doesn’t get cove­rage in West Texas. Please e-mail me if you’re trying to get in touch. Thanks.]
I’m wri­ting this from Alpine, Texas, where my dad lives. Han­ging here for the next week or two. Hard­core West Texas, Brews­ter County. Miles away from anywhere, just how I like it [Movies like “Giant”, “There Will Be Blood”, “Dan­cer, Texas” and “No Country For Old Men” were all fil­med ’round here… not to men­tion, the famous Marfa Lights.]. Blog­ging light for the next while. Off to NYNY after this. Rock on.