September 24, 2008

back from the road trip

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Mon­day night I arri­ved back in Alpine, after one week and 3,200 miles on the road. I went from here in West Texas, to LA, to Ber­ke­ley, to Las Vegas, to Flags­taff, to Albu­quer­que, and back again. I sta­yed in cheap motels and lived on mostly Ame­ri­can diner food and Diet Coke. Here are some ran­dom notes on the trip, in no par­ti­cu­lar order:
A. Iti­ne­rary.
Day One, Mon­day. Alpine, Texas-Blythe, Cali­for­nia. 816 miles. The lon­gest leg of the trip was on this first day, from West Texas to the the Arizona-California bor­der, right on the banks of the Colo­rado River.
En route I was hoping to meet up with Pam Slim and other Twit­ters in Phoe­nix, but got into town too late. It was around 2am before I made it to my hotel.
Southern New Mexico is a stun­ning place, if you like bleak, tall, red desert, moun­tain country. I cer­tainly do– when I’m there I feel I could go on dri­ving fore­ver.
Day Two, Tues­day. Blythe, California-Hollywood, Los Ange­les. 290 miles. Until you get to Palm Springs, I-10 seems little more than a dirt track going through the desert. Little small towns full of rusted-up mobile homes and bill­boards, offe­ring food, gas and lod­gings. Then you get to Palm Springs and the wind farms begin. Hun­dreds of wind tur­bi­nes. Thou­sands. Beau­ti­ful and surreal. The the coas­tal moun­tains begin and the traf­fic gets insane, all the way to Los Ange­les.
I had no rea­son to be in LA other than it’s en route to Ber­ke­ley. Luc­kily, one of my oldest friends, Dave Mac­ken­zie is there at the moment, wor­king on a movie. He let me crash at his pad in the Holly­wood Hills for the night. Not much to report other than two old bud­dies catching up, eating din­ner, drin­king whisky [just like the old days back in Scot­land], tal­king late into the night.
Day Three, Wed­nes­day, Holly­wood– Ber­ke­ley Cali­for­nia. 369 miles.
In the mor­ning Dave and I hea­ded for break­fast at The Griddle Cafe on Fair­fax. After break­fast we hug­ged each other in the par­king lot, said our goodb­yes, Dave hea­ded for a mee­ting with some­body in “The Industry”, and I hea­ded North.
For such a mas­sive city, Los Ange­les is a fairly easy town to escape, once you’re on the free­way [so long as it isn’t rush hour, of course]. After an hour or two of dri­ving through the moun­tains on I-5, Sud­denly you find the moun­tains coming to an end, and below you is the vast, flat Cen­tral Cali­for­nian plain.
There’s not much to say about it, except it’s vast, it’s flat, and it’s America’s lar­gest produce-growing region. Just ima­gine mile after mile of huge fields, vine­yards, orange gro­ves and small towns. After a few hun­dred miles of this agri-industrial mono­tony the hills outside San Fran­cisco begin– all cove­red with this almost mys­te­rious, mustard-colored grass­land. Then, like all big Ame­ri­can cities, the high­ways end and the free­ways begin. By this time I am so wired from the dri­ving I don’t notice the traf­fic all around me. I’m in a trance. The crazy com­mu­ters don’t phase me– it’s like they’re not there.
I make it to Ber­ke­ley. A small college town in the Bay area– kinda reminds me of Aus­tin. I’m there for a rea­son I can’t quite talk about. Something to do with busi­ness. All very hush-hush. Though I have some good friends across the bay in San Fran­cisco, I don’t look anyone up. Too much to do. I’m only in town one night. I’m on a mis­sion. I’ll see them next time.
Day Four, Thurs­day. Ber­ke­ley, Cali­for­nia to Las Vegas, Nevada.
I stay one night. In the mor­ning I meet the per­son I’m in town to see for break­fast at the Brown Sugar Kitchen in Oakland. Great fried chic­ken, though I think they could’ve used less rose­mary. The break­fast goes well. I hap­pily hit the road, hea­ding for Vegas.
A few hun­dred miles of re-tracing my drive along the Cen­tral Valley. About two thirds back to LA I turn off I-5 at Wasco and head West. Middle of bloody nowhere– enough to give anywhere in West Texas a run for its money. Far­ming towns, pic­kup trucks, and little else. Even­tually the vast, agri­cul­tu­ral plain ends and I’m dri­ving up into the eas­tern Cali­for­nian moun­tains. Spec­ta­cu­lar. They too, end even­tually and just as sun­set kicks in I find myself dri­ving through the Mojave desert. Colors so beau­ti­ful I almost want to cry.
I’m on Inters­tate 15 hea­ding into Vegas from the South. It’s night­time, it’s pitch black, save for the head­lights of other cars. Then sud­denly you see Vegas in the dis­tance, a vast ball of colo­red lights. I find my hotel on the Strip– the MGM Grand, and check in.
Then the blur begins… like all blog con­fe­ren­ces. Talk. Net­wor­king. Busi­ness. Alcohol. I’ve done it all before, many times. We’re pro­fes­sio­nals. We know the score.
Day Five, Fri­day, Las Vegas.
Blur. Surreal. Vegas. Overwhel­ming.
Day Six, Satur­day, Las Vegas.
More blur. More surreal. Meet lots of peo­ple at Blog­world. Fun time had by all.
Day Seven, Sun­day. Las Vegas-Albuquerque, New Mexico. 585 miles.
The day starts with the usual “End of Con­fe­rence” thing. I pack, I check out of my hotel, I hang with Loren and Miche­lle for a while, till they have to go grab a cab to the air­port. I go grab my car and head east out of the city, hoping to make Albu­quer­que by mid­night.
I make it to Albu­quer­que in good time, i spite of the two-hour traf­fic jam going over the Hoo­ver Dam. I stop in Flags­taff, Ari­zona for din­ner– a modest fare of Big Mac, fries and coke. I love this part of the world, if I wasn’t so damn busy, if I didn’t have this mas­sive dead­line han­ging over my head, I would have taken a few more days to check out the Grand Can­yon and Monu­ment Valley. I’ve been to both before, both spec­ta­cu­lar place, but I decide to save them for next time. I almost didn’t.
I make it to my hotel in Albu­quer­que just after mid­night. A nice Best Wes­tern, just off the free­way. I’m asleep within minu­tes of first ente­ring my room.
Day Eight, Mon­day, Albu­quer­que to Alpine, Texas. 486 miles.
The road bet­ween Albu­quer­que and El Paso isn’t much to talk about. I’ve been on simi­lar dri­ves in Texas, and I pre­fer them. By this time I’m star­ting to burn out on the road trip. I make it to Texas and keep on hea­ding on till I reach Alpine. I slept 12 hours that night.
B. Ran­dom Thoughts.
1. Besi­des all the geo­graphi­cal splen­dor this part of the world affords, the best part of a road trip like this, of course, is that is gives you all that time to think. And what di I think about? Short Ans­wer: How the heck am I going to manage all the stuff I’ve currently got going on, AND find the time to draw car­toons. If you know the ans­wer, please tell me.
2. I didn’t go to Vegas for the Blog­world con­fe­rence. I went for the semi-annual Board of Advi­sors mee­ting for b5 Media. I am a board mem­ber, so are Stowe Boyd, Doc Searls, Robert Sco­ble and Renee Blod­gett. We all hung out most of Fri­day with b5’s CEO, Jere­mey Wright. Great mee­ting. My ori­gi­nal plan was just to fly up to Vegas for a night or two then fly back, but the lure of the road got the bet­ter of me. Sure it added a cou­ple of days to the equa­tion, but hey, you only live once.
3. Being on the road taught me exactly how use­ful a Black­berry can be, espe­cially one with GPS-enabled Goo­gle­maps. Like the old adver­ti­sing line says, don’t leave home without it.
4. I like being on the road. If I had to choose a blue-collar job it would be a truck dri­ver. No ques­tion. Second choice: Dry wall buil­der. Third choice: Plum­ber.
5. Seems I’m well on tar­get to drive 40,000 miles this year. All those trips to Aus­tin, Marfa, Ter­lin­gua etc.
6. Part of me just wants to quit everything, live in the desert, and make & sell pain­tings. I know it’s more than fea­si­ble, it would be a gig most “crea­tive” types would kill for, but I suf­fer from other yet unrea­li­zed ambi­tions.
7. It’s a good life. I think what keeps it good is the spi­rit of adven­ture. Hope­fully we can hold onto that fee­ling for as long as we are alive. Other­wise, why bother? Rock on.

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21 Responses to “back from the road trip”

  1. juliejulie says:

    But we really want to hear about the sec­ret plans and cle­ver tricks. Eva­sive tra­vel dia­ries are boring. Road kill? Cute wai­tress? High­way rob­bers? Whis­pers, hints, allegations?

  2. debora says:

    your words of the road make me look for­ward to my west texas trip.
    and before 5 days ago — i did not know of a Hugh Mac­Leod.
    funny how it is all sec­retly con­nec­ted — your words ins­pi­red the Texas Maga­zine publisher to do a story on Marathon, Texas — they con­tact me — i get to go.

  3. hugh macleod says:

    Julie­ju­lie, I assure you, this was VERY MUCH PART of my sec­ret evil plan ;-)

  4. Kirk Kittell says:

    Totally envious… my first intro­duc­tion to the desert was a drive from College Sta­tion to Big Bend NP, up to Gua­da­lupe Moun­tains NP, then on west to Mojave, Cali­for­nia. Rea­ding about your jaunts through the desert(s) makes me crazy. I love the desert. I love dri­ving through it. It is an ama­zing can­vas for thin­king; you either hate it because it is empty and there is nothing to see, or you love it because it is empty and there is everything to see.
    Hey, but Hous­ton is just as good… (lies, lies)

  5. moiremusic says:

    Hugh, any chance you’ll be in Marfa for the open house wee­kend next month?

  6. Bill Sanders says:

    Love the road trip write up, but where are the pic­tu­res? And next time, try it on two wheels! I just did 2300 miles to Yellows­tone for the same lure of the road: beau­ti­ful sce­nery and plenty of time to think.

  7. nikkirae says:

    I’m glad you had an enjo­ya­ble and pro­duc­tive trip. I like rea­ding your descriptions.

  8. Thomas says:

    Hugh did you go through Yuma because your over­nights say that, but your goo­gle map puts you through Blythe Cali­for­nia as the Arizona-Cali bor­der town. Something needs to be chan­ged I sus­pect. It was Blythe if you took the I-10 across as Yuma is on I-8.

  9. emily says:

    it looks like an amoeba.

  10. Dave says:

    Actually, I don’t think you went anywhere near Yuma. Yuma is on I-8, not I-10, and your map shows that you were on I-10

  11. That’s it. Next time I’m in the region (or I need to put my thoughts together), I have to plan for a road trip.

  12. hugh macleod says:

    Oops. Yes, Dave, you’re right. I read the Goo­gle­map wrong. Mea Culpa. It was indeed Blythe, Cali­for­nia. Corrected.

  13. Walt says:

    Hang on to the spi­rit. The road, that road, is a magi­cal place. I’ve been over it 50 times or so since I was a boy. It was a plea­sure to hear from someone who knows how to use that time and space. There’s a whole country out there. Seems ever­yone else is a slave to air­ports and phony secu­rity checks.
    You had time for the Can­yon and Monu­ment Valley. Time wasn’t your limi­ting fac­tor. Keep on roc­kin’ in the free world.

  14. Hey, it was really nice to finally meet you in per­son at Blog­World, I know John counts you as one of his close friends. Hope we can all hang out a bit more sometime.

  15. Hannah says:

    What a neat trip! I love the country you saw.

  16. Rhonda says:

    I envy you and live vica­riously through your tra­vel logs. I’ve made that trip a few times myself and rea­ding about it brings back the sights, sounds and smells of many childhood trips. Thank you.

  17. Ever­yone I know thinks I am nuts to drive down I-5 a few times a year from San Jose to SoCal and back. Just did a trip last week — sounds like we might have been on the road at the same time.
    My favo­rite things about I-5:
    1) Harris Ranch in Coa­linga, CA (you did not men­tion it — hope you can check it out some­time if you never have — some of the best steak you’ll ever eat!)
    2) GARLIC TRUCKS! You must have seen these…the semi trucks that, ins­tead of having a typi­cal closed-in load on them, have a giant cage that is full of gar­lic. They’re white, and little pie­ces of gar­lic skin waft along in the air behind them. I always love to think about where all that gar­lic is going! You will see those (and simi­lar “tomato trucks”) on I-5 this time of year as the gar­lic is har­ves­ted and makes its way to who-knows-where.
    I also find dri­ving inte­res­ting and pea­ce­ful. It gives me time to think. Though at about the time I hit the 5/405 split, I’m always ready to be whe­re­ver it is I’m going. :)
    –Erica

  18. Jon Husband says:

    Road trips such as yours are one of those must-do-before-one-dies kind of thing. I haven’t been on a decent one for a long time now, though luc­kily I have a few under my belt from pre­vious chap­ters of my life.
    Coast-to-coast North Ame­ri­can road trips are a must … I’ve done three (1975, 1984 and 1990).

  19. Man, how I’d love to tra­vel like this. The only things I’ve seen in the Sta­tes is the North-East coast and San Fran­cisco. But you’re tal­king about Jack Kerouac’s terri­tory. I’ll have to hire a cam­per some­day soon