September 2, 2008

desert rats

edges004.jpg
[“Edges 4″. Part of “The Edges” Series. Click on image to enlarge etc. Yes, I was thin­king about Mic­ro­soft when I drew that etc etc.]
Out here in West Texas, we have a cer­tain type of indi­vi­dual, who are affec­tio­na­tely refe­rred to as “Desert Rats”.
Desert Rats are basi­cally peo­ple who choose to live a spar­tan, alter­na­tive, self-sufficient exis­tence out in the desert. Pro­bably the most famous clus­ter of them around these parts can be found down in Ter­lin­gua Ghost Town, in the Chi­qua­qua Desert, about 100 miles South of where I live, close to Big Bend Natio­nal Park and the Mexi­can bor­der. Some­body just made docu­men­tary about them.
Ter­lin­gua Ghost Town used to be a small mer­cury mining town of about 2,000 peo­ple. Then in the 1940s the ore ran out, and the work dried up over­night. So peo­ple left. It became a ghost town, just like hun­dreds of other for­mer mining towns here in the South­west. A few deca­des later peo­ple loo­king to escape the rat-race in the most extreme way pos­si­ble star­ted moving down there. The utter harsh­ness of the lands­cape somehow ins­pi­red them.
When tal­king about Ter­lin­gua, you never go very long without someone men­tio­ning “The Porch”. They’d be tal­king about the porch of the Ter­lin­gua Gene­ral Store, the place where peo­ple gather daily at sun­set to drink beer, play gui­tar and tell sto­ries. I’ve hung out there a few times. Got chat­ting to Doc­tor Doug, one of the local cha­rac­ters. Nice guy. He’s been living in a rusty, yellow, dila­pi­da­ted school bus for 20 years or so [He gets a men­tion in the docu­men­tary, so click on the link above to see more].
But not all Desert Rats live just in Ter­lin­gua– they’re pretty much everywhere round these parts. I’ve met lots of them here in Alpine, for ins­tance.
What you notice is that, their uncon­ven­tio­nal lifestyle not­withs­tan­ding, they’re quite dif­fe­rent to the usual alter­na­tive Woodstock-college-student-hippie-drippie ste­reotype. They own guns and hun­ting kni­ves, and will use them if they have to. Try tres­pas­sing on their land with bad intent one day, if you don’t believe me.
The other thing you notice is JUST HOW LITTLE MONEY some of them live on. Heck, I thought I was cut­ting back when I moved out here, but some of these peo­ple are off the scale. It’s not uncom­mon to see them living on $5 – 10 thou­sand per year. Lord knows how they do it; except that bar­ter is a huge part of the equa­tion.
Sure, by mains­tream Ame­ri­can stan­dards you could argue the Desert Rats are an eccen­tric, “out there” bunch. But there’s something com­pe­lling about them, too. That great Ame­ri­can ideal, “Rug­ged Indi­vi­dua­lism” is clear to see in their faces. Their lives somehow seem a lot clo­ser to the 19th-Century Wes­tern pio­neers, than to say, the present-day, Blackberry-addicted com­mu­ters of New York and San Fran­cisco.
And you always ask your­self, Why? What makes them take this par­ti­cu­lar path?
Short Ans­wer: Because they can. They wan­ted to do it, some­ti­mes for good rea­sons, some­ti­mes for bad. And so they did, for bet­ter or for worse. And yes, though parts of their lives seem inc­re­dibly rewar­ding– espe­cially from a dis­tance– they’ve also paid an equally inc­re­dibly high price for the pri­vi­lege, which isn’t always so obvious at first glance . This inc­re­dibly high price is no dif­fe­rent than anywhere else, whether we’re tal­king here in West Texas, or we’re tal­king a big tech com­pany in Sili­con Valley, a star­tup in Chi­cago, a Wall Street bank. “Living on The Edges” is inva­riably a damn expen­sive business.

15 Responses to “desert rats”

  1. Jake Edwards says:

    Ha ha !
    Where is that Rat catcher Tybalt Prince of Cats when you need him ?
    Nowhere to be seen.
    I‘ve been wan­de­ring around (Aotea­roa) for years and yes, there is a high price to pay
    but life without the edges is no life at all.
    Just a stul­tif­ying, pre­dic­ta­ble, grey dirge.
    Of course those who choose to, pay a dif­fe­rent price for free­dom using a dif­fe­rent currency alto­gether. Expe­rience
    is not cheap, but show me a hollow man who has had any? Or a ful­fi­lled man with none.
    The Rat — http://www.myspace.com/jkeedwards
    Blog — http://jakeedwards.wordpress.com/
    KAPITEL — http://www.cafepress.com/kbrand

  2. We have them here in Viet­nam as well. I believe we’re called “jun­gle rats” — those who have fled to the edges because it’s just plain more fun!

  3. Jake Edwards says:

    If my last com­ment see­med like blunt u.r.l. pro­mo­tion please take them out and post it any­way. In fact take them out.
    …the void is where the edge beco­mes rea­lity…
    SALEABLE EVEN !
    its an achie­ve­ment beyond the limits of euc­li­dean rhetoric.

  4. nikkirae says:

    Admi­ra­ble and there’s a hint of jea­lousy for that lifestyle. I live on little with my family of five but the com­mu­nity of them.. that’s ama­zing to me.
    Of course.. my jea­lousy is use­less when all that keeps me from those edges is myself.

  5. Wish I hadn’t just orde­red a new set of your cards; I’d order this one. I’ve been a desert rat for 40 years. Lived on solar in a geo­de­sic dome in the 70s.

  6. RKR says:

    Desert Rats pro­bably draw a line in the sand to keep others “out there”.

  7. Adriana says:

    Spot on, Hugh, espe­cially on the “they’ve also paid an equally inc­re­dibly high price for the pri­vi­lege, which isn’t always so obvious at first glance” bit!
    Part of the rea­son why peo­ple like that keep on living like desert rats (by far not the main rea­son though!) is that having paid that price and having tas­ted the rewards, it’s impos­si­ble to go back to ‘nor­mal’, without being bro­ken in spi­rit in some ways.
    Another thing I like about desert rats is that there is no posing invol­ved. Just first hand unders­tan­ding of some­ti­mes harsh rea­lity, abi­lity not to fool them­sel­ves and to much self-respect to bullshit.
    I used to like saying — living on the edge takes up less space. But you are right, it is inva­riably a damn expen­sive business…

  8. m says:

    The Desert USA pho­tos you lin­ked to make me nos­tal­gic for that earthy lands­cape and archi­tec­ture of the South­west – West Texas and New Mexico in par­ti­cu­lar. The church pic­tu­red on the site espe­cially appeals to me, looks very much like a Mexi­can reta­blo come to life.
    I’ve seen those crum­bling stone (and other) struc­tu­res that some have made into homes in Ter­lin­gua (or had when I was there some years ago, at least). What a jux­ta­po­si­tion, those makeshift, some­ti­mes crum­bling shacks along­side the fully func­tio­ning sto­res, bar and res­tau­rant, etc. just feet away. Ter­lin­gua is an inte­res­ting place for sure (as are many small towns far from den­ser civi­li­za­tion are in my view).
    I can relate to those who hear, and heed, the call for an off-the-grid life. I think most of us can to some degree. But life on “the edges”/edge, à la Terlingua’s “desert rats,” is, in my esti­ma­tion, no more and no less expen­sive than life in the dead-center, or anywhere else.
    I’d argue that “though parts of their lives seem inc­re­dibly rewarding-especially from a dis­tance– they’ve also paid an equally inc­re­dibly high price for the pri­vi­lege, which isn’t always so obvious at first glance,” likely applies as much to lives lived on the edge as it does to lives at any point along the con­ti­nuum.
    My sus­pi­cion: Life on the edge exacts no more a cost for its posi­tive aspects than any other lifestyle does for *its* rewar­ding com­po­nents. (And I rea­lize your post isn’t neces­sa­rily sta­ting that a life on the edges exerts a *grea­ter* cost than other lifesty­les – though that may be your view, I don’t know – just that it exerts a *great* cost; my com­ment isn’t meant as a disa­gree­ment, just a riff off the points in your post.)
    In every life, no mat­ter the lifestyle, there is an oppor­tu­nity cost for every choice and action. We all pay for the posi­ti­ves in our lives by mis­sing out on pos­si­bi­li­ties that aren’t via­ble within the con­text of our current choi­ces, howe­ver good and rewar­ding though they may be.
    No lifestyle holds a mono­poly on the level of cost, expense, and trade-offs exchan­ged for rewards; we all (equally, I sus­pect) sac­ri­fice what might have been for what is every sin­gle day. The only dif­fe­rence is in the par­ti­cu­lar com­bi­na­tion of rewards and sac­ri­fi­ces that works best for each of us.
    Costs, like rewards, are per­so­nal and sub­jec­tive, and hold no uni­ver­sal value. They can be mea­su­red only by their worth to each indi­vi­dual, making the cost of every lifestyle a varia­ble depen­dent solely on the per­son paying it, and simi­larly, the reward, on the per­son rea­ping it.
    So, from what I can tell, it’s not that life on the edge is any more costly than life in the bulls-eye cen­ter (or anywhere else) per se, but that life *in gene­ral* is costly, period. All the more rea­son then to choose wisely and to choose well.
    You can’t escape the costs in any case (regard­less of where you live life: edges, cen­ter, or other­wise), so you may as well love wha­te­ver it is you’re paying so dearly for.
    [I’ve pos­ted a varia­tion of this com­ment on my own blog as well …]

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  10. Totally agree with Adriana–
    “having paid that price and having tas­ted the rewards, it’s impos­si­ble to go back to ‘nor­mal’, without being bro­ken in spi­rit in some ways.”
    These peo­ple have got something spe­cial, and they con­si­der it worth the price. I think they’re right (they get a lot of flack– plenty of peo­ple dis­miss it), but doing this is a per­so­nal choice not a moral impe­ra­tive, because of the per­so­nal cost.
    Fin­ding the edges of Mic­ro­soft and Dell is a seriously ambi­tious enter­prise though. I’m impressed.

  11. JAJA says:

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  12. DennisSC says:

    We all pay a price, we all make choi­ces — but only some of us get roman­ti­ci­zed. I’m not sure they care (it would be a lot less roman­tic if they did).

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