March 23, 2008
more notes from west texas 2
[Cathedral Mountain, 6,122ft. Picture taken bu my father, about 20 miles South of Alpine, Texas.]
It’s been just over a week since I got back to Alpine after SXSW Interactive. Here are some random notes.
1. I’ve not much to report, to be honest. I’ve deliberately been living as slowly and quietly as possible. I think a lot of us are still recovering from SXSW.
2. I have no idea how long I will stay in Alpine. All that I know is that I don’t want to leave right now. I have no plans of going anywhere else, except on business.
3. It looks like I found me an office. Sul Ross [the local university] rents out some office units as part of some sort of “Entrepreneur Center” program that they’re running. Fax, photocopier, all that good stuff. Cost: about $150 dollars a month.
4. Housing is not a problem, either. I was staying with my dad and stepmom, but recently I moved into a cheap and cheerful motel. Hotels, Motels and rented places go for between $500 and $1000 a month, which after London and New York, is not something that worries me too much. Housing prices are about $80-$150K, which again, compared to what I was used to seeing in Europe, is peanuts.
5. If I decide to stay for a long time, I’ll need to buy me a car. I’m thinking a used pickup truck, the kind that runs forever. The local classified ads are awash with them. In the meantime, I just placed an order for a new Raleigh from the local bike shop. The town is pretty flat, and only two miles at its widest, so getting around isn’t much of a problem.
6. Dad and I had a fun time a few days ago, driving up to Odessa, Texas, 140 North East of here. He had a doctor’s appointment up at the Medical Centre there, and I had to go to the Social Security office to get me a new copy of my Social Security card, in order that I could reapply for my old Texas driver’s license. Including the wait in line, I was in and out of the office inside ten minutes, I kid you not. Could you imagine how long that would have taken had I been in New York, London, or Paris?
7. About thirty miles North of Alpine you start leaving the mountains and start entering the cotton fields. Flat landscapes that seem to go on forever, interrupted only by telegraph poles. They’re growing some cotton up there, but a lot of the field are not being currently used– the current high price of oil makes running the irrigation machinery prohibitive. A bit further North and you start entering oil country ands the Odessa environs. Oil Derrecks, Pumpjacks, and lots of semi-ghost town with disused mobile homes and spare parts lying around the place. It takes a lot more people to set up the oil fields than it takes to maintain them, so abandoned dwellings are a pretty common sight.
8. Up in this part of the world [50 – 100 miles North of Alpine] the one thing you don’t see is a lot of cattle. There simply isn’t enough water for them in those parts, so I’m told.
9. Once you enter oil country you are immediately hit by the rather unpleasant smell of the oil and gas fields. The locals like the smell, though. “Smells like money,” as they like to say.
10. There’s not much I can tell you about Odessa. On first impression, it’s not a pretty place. About 100,000 people. Pick-up trucks, Strip malls, bungalows, oil industry stuff and little else. The aforementioned medical center and the current high price of oil seem to be the main economic engine.
11. We never made it to Midland, the next town over from Odessa, about 30 miles East. That’s where George W. Bush calls home. I’m told it’s not too different from Odessa, only a bit more upscale; Generally it’s regarded as the nicer town of the two. This is where you catch a plane if you’re heading East, from Midland-Odessa airport. If you’re heading to the West Coast from Alpine, you fly out of El Paso.
12. While Dad went for his doctor’s appointment, after I had gotten my Social Security business settled, to my delight I found a Starbucks only a block or two away. So I ordered my usual Grande Latte, hooked up my computer to the internet and entered the same world I enter when I’m in Alpine, New York or London. The internet has become the great leveler for me.
13. Though hardly the most authentic place in the world, if you want cheap and cheerful Italian cuisine in Odessa, you could do a lot worse than go to Corino’s. The people there are pretty friendly.
14. My intention is, once I get settled [Place to live, office, car, driver’s license etc], my plan is to go into overdrive for a couple of months. I have a lot of work needing done.
15. Happy Easter, Everybody!
Wow, Hugh, this is good for you. You seem much more relaxed than you were at SXSW. When I moved to Arizona, it looked like west Texas in the photo you posted. Now, of course, it is very urban. You might want to buy one of those $80k houses and just sit on it for a while.
As long as you have the Internet and an airport, you might as well live in a place where the living is a little easier. I’ve done that (moved to Phoenix from NYC) and therefore I think I’m a healthy person. And you will write your book there, too. There won’t be a conference a day to distract you.
Those of us from that area used to call Odessa Slowdeatha. Really ugly town. Alpine is great though. The people in the area are truly good people. Enjoy!
Francine, what in interesting perspective. Having live in Phx area the majority of my life (with a ton of travel) I agree it’s slower than the East Coast, but I can not wait to move out from here to some more obscure place in the state. Sadly, nothing will be obscure much longer, unless of course I move to Tortilla Flats.
Hugh,
I had no idea you were a Texas boy. I just assumed you was all high-falootin and exotic like those Hollywood types. Welcome back. I’ve got great memories of west Texas…camping in Big Bend, floating down the Rio Grande.
Relax, sit a spell…take yer boots off.
–giovanni
Hugh, my friend… the next time you need a bicycle, I certainly hope you’ll let me know… seeing as to how I run a bike company.
I’m just sayin’…
Sounds like your soul is really resonating with Alpine — that’s awesome! There’s a lot to be said for not being at the heart of it all.
Two weeks ago I was slated to go to Australia for the weekend, and the night before I left I realized my NZ permanent resident visa had expired, meaning I could go to Sydney but wouldn’t be able to come back. So I just got up early the next day and went to the immigration office. Yes, I got there early (7AM) and had to wait until they opened (8:30), but I was in and out with my new visa before 9. Try that in the States!
That photo really reminds me of — and makes me miss — New Mexico. I was born down in Deming (deep southern portion, maybe an hour’s drive from the Mexico border), and there were lots of open spaces and mountains and just gorgeousness everywhere. I miss it like crazy, and loved it while I was there, so I can definitely picture where you’re coming from with this fanatical enjoyment of Alpine. There’s a lot to love about the southwest, I’m glad you’re enjoying it!
Whatcha writing, Mr. Hugh?
Are you really going to be riding a bike around town this summer? Yikes! I’m in Austin and lived in the Southeast for over 20 years. I walk outside after May 1 and start sweating.
I wanted to catch up with you during SXSW but was not involved with Interactive. I hit the music pretty hard, though. Maybe you’ll come this way again and host a geek dinner.
Nice prose Hugh
Hugh, I am really enjoying your Alpine meanderings. And the connection with your Dad is just sweet. It seeps through the posts in such a good way. You will never regret spending time with him. I learned that after my grandpa passed away and I wondered why I didn’t spend more time sitting on the porch talking.
If you want to hop over the border to come visit me and Francine in urban Phoenix, please do! Despite the sprawl, there are some special places, especially if my hubbie takes you out to the Navajo res.
Enjoy your new pace, good luck settling in.
–Pam
P.S. I finally joined Twitter and see you there often … I am @pamslim. Trying to find my pace there.
It sure sounds like you found your garden of eden.
When will we know the truth about UFO in Stephenville ?
Seems like a great place to write/think/breathe. Thanks for sharing a slice of it with us. I’ve been wanting to visit Marfa for some time. I’ll be sure to include Alpine when I get that trip together.
Hey, are you hip to El Cosmico in Marfa? http://www.elcosmico.com/
It’s being developed by the same people that own Hotel San Jose in Austin.
Hugh
Sounds like you are soundin more …Tex..as
“I’ll need to buy me a car”
Back from London a few weeks ago (daughter and future son-in-law), different up here (NW Mich)
Looking at our frozen lake (but days are much longer now), waiting for spring.
45min from our airport (TWC) and highspeed internet.
Yup, a leveler
Oh … passing your post to friends from … Odessa (G)
Ciao
Chip
Hugh — are you moving to Alpine and never coming back to Blighty? We need you! x
Just added you to my follow list on Twitter. I am a former Alpine resident (Class of 1984
) We may know some of the same people…