March 23, 2005

nice one, tony

From Tony Good­son:

I’ll keep saying it until I sound like Tom Peters!
China, and India, and Korea, and Bra­zil, and Rus­sia are loo­king on, and will kill any com­pany that tries to be a “they”. Because “they” will be bet­ter and less expensive.

Dege & Skin­ner, one of the more pres­ti­gious Savile Row tai­lors, has a new line of “half price” suits, around the $1500 mark. The pat­terns are mea­su­red and the cloth cut in Lon­don, but all the sewing’s done in China.
Gie­ves & Haw­kes, another great stal­wart of the Row, is fore­ver trying to milk its Savile-Rowieness in order to sell more lines of manu­fac­tu­red pret-a-porter to the tou­rists.
In other words, they’re trying to beat the big labels (and, if you will, the Chi­nese manu­fac­tu­rers) at their own game. They will lose.
What mat­ters on Savile Row is the tai­lors of the hard­core variety. So what really mat­ters, long term, is fin­ding and trai­ning decent appren­ti­ces.
Savile Row: For­get the big labels. For­get the Chi­nese. Worry about who’s teaching your appren­ti­ces.
That’s our long-term plan with English Cut.

2 Responses to “nice one, tony”

  1. Caitycat says:

    YES!!! When I left school,I wan­ted to be a milli­ner — but no milli­ners were taking on appren­ti­ces, so the­re­fore the local Tech­ni­cal and Further Edu­ca­tion colle­ges pulled the cour­ses as the teachers reti­red… so now we either buy cheap Chi­nese hats or “crafty” hats or — pay a HYYYYUUUUUUGEE price for something that, frankly, is NOT the equi­va­lent of “Savi­lle Row”. You can tell the eco­no­mic ratio­na­lists — they’re the ones in the cheap Chi­nese sewn suits.…

  2. mcbietz says:

    “Worry about who’s teaching your appren­ti­ces…”
    good les­son for anyone, no mat­ter the busi­ness.
    ima­gine if a trade school (of any kind) was a
    pre-requisite for the uni­ver­sity system.