Archive for March, 2005

March 31, 2005

tom in new york

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News on the English Cut front:
[REMINDER:] Tom will be in New York next week from Thurs­day to Sun­day, if anyone fan­cies a suit. Just arrange to meet him at The Hotel Ben­ja­min on 50th & Lexing­ton.
[PERSONAL OBSERVATION:] I think han­ging round Savile Row wai­ting for poten­tial clients to visit Lon­don is a big energy was­ter. I’m loo­king for­ward to seeing what hap­pens in New York. The after that, we have Paris on the 25th. After that, we work on Mos­cow, Dubai, and Milan.
U.S. West Coast? I know you could argue that part of the world is mostly Busi­ness Casual, but we’re not doing “mostly”. We’re doing hard­core niche. We only rea­lis­ti­cally need around ten good clients in any mar­ket to make it sus­tai­na­ble. Ten Cali­for­nians out of thirty million. Ten Ita­lians out of forty million, that kind of thing.
This is what crea­ting a glo­bal mic­ro­brand is all about. Making and selling a world-class pro­duct that tra­vels well.

March 30, 2005

the short tail

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t-shirt update:

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The t-shirt deal is moving ahead. The e-commerce web­site should be up by early next week, fin­gers cros­sed.
As I said before, each design will be limi­ted to an edi­tion of 200. That’s it. No more. Once they’re gone, they’re gone.
I shall start with four designs, the “Hughtrain/Infinite” design above, the “Good for you” design and two others. As soon as one sells out, I’ll intro­duce another. But there won’t ever be more than 4 designs, 200 of each, avai­la­ble at one time.
If you want to collect them all, there will be a subsc­rip­tion ser­vice, which auto­ma­ti­cally char­ges your cre­dit card and sends you a new shirt, when they become avai­la­ble. Yes, you will be able to unsubsc­ribe at any time.
Each one will come with a wee prin­ted card, with the limi­ted edi­tion num­ber hand-written on it.
I think they might become quite collec­ta­ble, in their own little way. I cer­tainly have no wish to flood the mar­ket with them.

“i’d rather be real than great”

Good point from Evelyn Rodri­guez:

I’d rather be real than great. I have never gai­ned anything I truly wan­ted from a pure pur­suit of great­ness. I’m not saying these two are mutually exc­lu­sive, but the focus can lead one astray. Nothing kills rela­tionships — per­so­nal and pro­fes­sio­nal — quic­ker than when I stop being real. It’s costly in the tan­gi­ble cash realm too.

Maybe being real is a form of greatness…

March 29, 2005

hong kong’s biggest tailor

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Hong Kong’s big­gest tai­lor is now selling 1,000 suits a week in the UK. Won­der­ful busi­ness model. From the BBC:

Even more luc­kily, Mr Daswani’s main com­pe­ti­tors — the vene­ra­ble names of Savile Row and Jermyn Street — seem oddly hams­trung.
Quite apart from price, Mr Das­wani says, they have a lot to learn about cus­to­mer satis­fac­tion.
“They try to tell the cus­to­mer what to wear,” he says.
“But we’ll make anything you want, any way you want; we’re not proud.“
Mr Daswani’s more democ­ra­tic approach, he feels, has hel­ped bring made-to-measure tai­lo­ring to a wider audience.
City boys and poli­ti­cians — inc­lu­ding, it is rumou­red, Tony Blair — still make up the bulk of his clien­tele, but a gro­wing per­cen­tage are twenty­so­methings on mode­rate incomes.

Hams­trung? Well, maybe some peo­ple feel that way.
I think the jour­na­list who wrote the article is a wee bit under-informed. I don’t think Mr Des­wani is going after Poole’s and Huntsman’s and Ander­son & Sheppard’s busi­ness. Looks to me like he’s going after these guys and these guys, and the more upmar­ket ready-to-wear boys.
[NOTE TO SELF:] Time to raise pri­ces again. Ker. Chiiing.

March 28, 2005

greatness

From Dig­tank:

From the very early days of school, to the upper eche­lons of busi­ness, it’s always about focu­sing on impro­ving our weak points. Rarely is it about cele­bra­ting that which makes us great.
Yes. I did say “Great”. Great­ness exists in most of us. And a per­son who doesn’t believe that shouldn’t be in buis­ness.
If all you care about with your peo­ple is their weak spots, you will have a weak com­pany. Fore­ver. Lucky you.

Oops. Howard used the word “Great­ness”.
We mustn’t have that. As soon as you start using words like that to talk about peo­ple– great­ness, excep­tio­nal, remar­ka­ble etc– you start attrac­ting the “Don’t-be-so-judgemental-what-might-be-great-to-you-might-not-be-so-great-to-somebody-else-because-everybody’s-special-even-if-society-doesn’t-value-them-in-monetary-terms” crowd.
I had a bit of a run-in with them last August. It still amu­ses me to think about it.

savile row pic

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Here’s a pic­ture of Savile Row I found on Goo­gle.
This is taken from the North end, loo­king South. This is pretty much it. You can see it end there at the bot­tom, at Vigo Street.
On the right you can see the cor­ner stone arch­way of Ander­son & Shep­pard, Tho­mas’ old emplo­yer. Last month they moved their store one block West, on to Cork Street.
I think the demo­li­tion mob’s already moved in this week some­time and we’ll have new, shiny off­fice buil­dings in no time. Pro­gress, there’s no stop­ping it etc.
Fun­nily enough, this pic­ture seems to have been taken right on the doorstp of Num­ber 20, Welsh & Jef­fries, where Tho­mas has his offi­ces. It’s a FANTASTIC little tai­lors shop. Their lease runs out as well in about a year, so doubt­less we’ll have EVEN MORE fun, shiny new offi­ces to gawk at.
In Cen­tral Lon­don, a lot of the land isn’t actually for sale, you just buy 100-year lea­ses off the Duke of West­mins­ter, or wha­te­ver. Ander­son & Shep­pard ope­ned in 1906; I’m gues­sing their 100-year lease just ran out, hence the bull­do­zers moving in.
It always sur­pri­ses me just how tiny Savile Row is, when you con­si­der all the sto­ries that come out of it.
Though it’s sad Anderson’s is being moved of the Row, it’s actually good for Tho­mas’ busi­ness. If Anderson’s can move off the Row and still be con­si­de­red “Savile Row”, then hell yeah, so can Thomas.

beyond “beyond lame”.

As if fake blogs weren’t “beyond lame” enough.
Now I think we’ve got… wait for it… fake com­ments.
You can think they’re real if you want. Something tells me they’re not. I dunno, they’re all too “on mes­sage” or something.
Also, their huge quan­ti­ties seems rather unli­kely.
What a great sce­na­rio: Some twenty­so­mething PR intern being told to write that crap hour after hour, from some gasket-popping “Crea­tive” Direc­tor about to lose his job. Hysterical.

the “beyond lame” award (cont.)

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Too funny. From a com­men­ter over at BL Ochmann’s:

In the last two weeks I have been spea­king to a (pri­vate, not com­pany) blog­ger who works for Dia­geo, bemoa­ning the fact that their ad agen­cies are pre­pa­ring fake blogs and have no clue about what blog­ging is. I also spoke to a crea­tive from a big ad agency that is crea­ting such faux blogs asking for advice. I guess we knew it was coming, brace yer­self and hope that’ll get what they deserve from the blogosphere.

OK, with the recent Cap­tain Mor­gan meme see­ming to hit a nerve with lots of peo­ple, I’m offi­cially star­ting “The Beyond Lame Award Of The Week”. I’ll post something every Sun­day, roun­da­bouts.
If you see something adver­ti­sing or marketing-related that qua­li­fies as “Beyond Lame”, please send me a link. No, it doesn’t neces­sa­rily have to be a blog or blog-related.
If I have enough links, then I might con­si­der upgra­ding the award to daily or semi-daily. Too early to tell. Watch this space.
Time these peo­ple lear­ned how to talk to peo­ple properly.

i can’t dump him

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googlejuice tailor

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A friend of mine rheo­to­ri­cally asked me the other day,

“If you have the best tai­lor in the world but he isn’t on Goo­gle, does it matter?”

Exactly. No Goo­gle­juice, you simply don’t mat­ter etc.
I am happy to report that English Cut’s Goo­gle­juice seems to be kic­king in. I’m watching the ran­kings like a hawk. Every day, it creeps up a little.
Goo­gle has been the cen­tral mar­ke­ting ques­tion since Day One of Tho­mas and I wor­king together– how the heck do we get English Cut higher Goo­gle ran­kings?
The ans­wer, of course, is by fre­quently upda­ting the blog. The more you update, be it a blog or a con­ven­tio­nal web­site, the higher your Goo­gle­juice. Blogs are far easier to update than con­ven­tio­nal web­si­tes.
Any­body who wants to stay in busi­ness should want Goo­gle­juice. It’s a no-brainer.
Any­body who wants Goo­gle­juice should have a blog. It’s a no-brainer.

The other good news is that all tha tai­lors on Savile Row are now tal­king about Tho­mas and English Cut. The Row is awash with rumor and gos­sip.
We like that. If the tai­lors are tal­king about you, the cus­to­mers will soon be tal­king as well. Again, it’s a no-brainer.

March 27, 2005

scottish blog designers wanted

I’m loo­king for some Scot­tish blog desig­ners.
Desig­ners who (A) “get it” (B) are rela­ti­vely tech-savvy across the plat­forms, espe­cially MT and Type­pad and © have some basic kudos in the graphic design depart­ment.
Being Clue­train and Hugh­train savvy is a defi­nite plus.
Ideally you’re based in Edin­bugh, but not the end of the world if you’re not.
There looks like there may be a lot of design work about to hit Edin­burgh in the next few months, pos­sibly. Perhaps we can help each other out. Just drop me an e-mail.
If you know anyone, please send them the per­ma­link to this post. Thanks.

DRM tip

In the com­ments of Card­board Spa­ceship:

“Hamish: Make sure to KEEP pos­ting on this DRM stuff. Yours is pro­bably the most lucid stuff I am rea­ding on the web on this at the mo. Well done.“
–Fred­die Daniells

Hamish is pro­bably the smar­test guy I know, online and offline, by the way.

the “beyond lame” award

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The “Beyond Lame” Award of The Week goes to… wait for it…
Hey, guess what, Cool Young Adults? The Cap­tain (of Cap­tain Mor­gan Rum fame) has star­ted a blog!
Nothing like drop­ping the name of a fake blog with your Cool Young Adult Friends to inc­rease the ol’ bat­ting ave­rage with the ladies, ya know?
To find out how this blog came into exis­tence, please refer to the car­toon above.
Yet another post-Cluetrain sui­cide pact bet­ween client and agency. Always a joy to behold.
[UPDATE:] Robert Sco­ble joins in the Cap­tain Mor­gan con­ver­sa­tion:

No com­ments? Lame. That tells us you don’t think we’re impor­tant enough to lis­ten to. No RSS? Lame. That tells us you don’t want connectors/sneezers/influentials to talk about you and you don’t want anyone to have a rela­tionship with you on THEIR TERMS. No real human author? That tells us that you aren’t pas­sio­nate or autho­ri­ta­tive about your pro­duct and you aren’t willing to get over your fear of tal­king with real customers.

All very true. But adver­ti­sers don’t come at it from a rela­tionship stand­point; to them it’s an issue of entit­le­ment.
“I’ve spent x-million dollars, Dam­mit, I am entit­led to x-million people’s undi­vi­ded atten­tion.“
And when they don’t get it, they blame the agency. And the agency willingly risks taking the rap in exchange for access to all that client money.
This is what often makes adver­ti­sing folk so (a) arro­gant and (b) para­noid. It’s an unhealthy combo.

March 26, 2005

no, it’s not alright

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the coolest blog

Some­body was asking me the other day what I thought the coo­lest blog of all time was.
Hard to be objec­tive, of course, but I would say this one.
The per­son who wrote it has since gone off to do other things, but in its day, it was the bomb.

dave parmet

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Being the ex-New Yor­ker that I am, somewhere along the line I deci­ded that I nee­ded to be in New York more often, sch­moo­zing the usual East Coast media sus­pects about how great English Cut was.
But New York is an expen­sive busi­ness, and I’m not really that well sui­ted to big-city life, nor tal­king to Big Media, so…
Any­way, a solu­tion came around quite by acci­dent.
A fre­quent visi­tor to gaping­void, New York PR exe­cu­tive Dave Par­met, was laid off from his job about 6 weeks ago. So I blog­ged about it. “Some­body Hire Dave, Dam­mit!” He would have done the same for me, so why not?
And his man­ners being impec­ca­ble (Good job, Dave’s Mom!), he e-mailed me back to say thanks. And I e-mailed him back, saying ‘No pro­blem’.
As one does.
So after that we boun­ced a few e-mails back and forth, till this one time I just asked him out of the blue if he would fancy trying his hand at gene­ra­ting PR for English Cut.
He e-mailed me back, saying, hhhhhhhhmmmmmmmmm.… he was very temp­ted, as he had always had a thing for Savile Row suits, ever since he first saw Brian Ferry wea­ring them on the MTV videos of his yourh.
So I e-mailed him back, saying, “Funny you should say that. Tho­mas [the tai­lor behind English Cut] used to cut for Brian Ferry.“
Boom!
Since then he’s been on the English Cut team.
Some peo­ple might think that English Cut’s sud­den rise was dri­ven mainly through my blog­ging about it, and of course, Tho­mas having a great blog in the first place about a world-class pro­duct peo­ple actually wan­ted to buy, using real money.
Well, part of that is true. But a big part of it was also David relent­lessly doing his thing on the New York side. This is espe­cially true when we’re tal­king about get­ting on the radar of the big media folk, of which I will talk about later, once the sto­ries become “offi­cial”.
So when Tho­mas gets to New York in April to mea­sure up his clients (most of them new ones, I might add), one of the guys he will be mea­su­ring a suit for will be David Par­met, in return for being such an exce­llent New York PR guy.
Besi­des what he’s done for English Cut, he’s got some really inte­res­ting Cluetrain-savvy ideas about PR. A lot of peo­ple in his industry are sca­red of his ideas. As they should be.

her apartment

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March 25, 2005

all bow to the master

Best thing of Seth Godin’s I’ve ever read. And that’s saying a lot.

flash

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you poor bastard

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[NOTE TO SELF:]
Happy in your work again. Making money again. Ope­ning up to the world again.
Time for ol’ Hughie to hit the dating scene again, you poor bas­tard.
Thin­king: Female, thirtysomething-ish, based in UK, maybe Lon­don, maybe Paris. Brains and a mas­sive sense of humor would be pretty fric­kin’ essen­tial. Pre­fe­rably some­body rather sen­si­ble and non-psycho, who enjoys her peace and quiet. Some­body who likes clas­si­cal music, Cum­bria etc.
I’d wait till after you have some pho­tos of your­self in your new Savile Row suit before pos­ting any new pics. Mean­time those rather unflat­te­ring ones from last year will have to do.
Maybe you should blog this.

heart on sleeve

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March 23, 2005

business porn

I first heard the bri­lliant term “Real Estate Porn” when rea­ding Gaw­ker a few years ago. Basi­cally, ima­gine a young, married Brooklyn cou­ple rea­ding through the pro­perty sec­tion of The New York Times, and you can just ima­gine, it would not be unlike college boys droo­ling over a copy of Penthouse.
So me and another friend were tal­king ear­lier this week about how totally obses­sed thirty­so­mething guys like us get with “Busi­ness Porn”.
Busi­ness Porn is just like Ordi­nary Porn or Real Estate Porn, except ins­tead of it being about the women we wished we could sleep with, or the hou­ses we wish we owned, it’s about all those cool, luc­ra­tive, exci­ting jobs and busi­nes­ses that we wish we had, ins­tead of the nor­mal, tedious, sch­leppy crap most of us end up doing to pay the bills.
You know, those kind of gigs that allow us access to the hot women and the nice hou­ses.
All three are somewhat con­nec­ted, if you’re a guy.

nice one, tony

From Tony Good­son:

I’ll keep saying it until I sound like Tom Peters!
China, and India, and Korea, and Bra­zil, and Rus­sia are loo­king on, and will kill any com­pany that tries to be a “they”. Because “they” will be bet­ter and less expensive.

Dege & Skin­ner, one of the more pres­ti­gious Savile Row tai­lors, has a new line of “half price” suits, around the $1500 mark. The pat­terns are mea­su­red and the cloth cut in Lon­don, but all the sewing’s done in China.
Gie­ves & Haw­kes, another great stal­wart of the Row, is fore­ver trying to milk its Savile-Rowieness in order to sell more lines of manu­fac­tu­red pret-a-porter to the tou­rists.
In other words, they’re trying to beat the big labels (and, if you will, the Chi­nese manu­fac­tu­rers) at their own game. They will lose.
What mat­ters on Savile Row is the tai­lors of the hard­core variety. So what really mat­ters, long term, is fin­ding and trai­ning decent appren­ti­ces.
Savile Row: For­get the big labels. For­get the Chi­nese. Worry about who’s teaching your appren­ti­ces.
That’s our long-term plan with English Cut.

March 22, 2005

fred wilson is a genius

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Fred Wil­son wrote the best thing I’ve read in weeks:
Apple Beco­mes a “They” Com­pany

There is this con­cept of “we com­pa­nies” and “they com­pa­nies”. I don’t know where it comes from. If you do, I’d love to know.
Any­way, “We” com­pa­nies are built by and for a com­mu­nity of users. Everything (inc­lu­ding pro­fits) flows from this core value of ser­ving the users. We com­pa­nies and their pro­fi­ta­bi­lity are inc­re­dibly sus­tai­na­ble.
“They” com­pa­nies are tra­di­tio­nal com­pa­nies that seek to opti­mize pro­fi­ta­bi­lity at the expense of everything else. These busins­ses are not sus­tai­na­ble and they tend to ove­rreach and ulti­ma­tely end up in a long and steady dec­line.
Mic­ro­soft is the pos­ter child for a “they” com­pany.
Craigs List is the pos­ter child for a “we” com­pany.
Apple used to be a “we” com­pany. I love Apple as I’ve blog­ged about many times. I still do. But Apple is not a “we” com­pany any more.

We vs They. You got it. Unders­tand this, and then maybe you start unders­tan­ding why The Clue­train is so impor­tant.
As Tony Good­son so won­der­fully wrote, some months back:

Clue­train feels like ours. Love­Marks feels like theirs.
Why are the battle lines being drawn for Clue­train v Love­Marks?
Isn’t Love­Marks trying to say the same thing?
What is it about Love­Marks that’s win­ding some of us up so much?
Is it Kevin’s voice in the book and on the web­site?
Is it that there’s an incon­sis­tency and con­tra­dic­tion in parts of the book?
Why does our gut feel tell us that there’s something mis­sing or wrong?

The “Cluetrain-Lovemarks Death­match” is really the “We-They Death­match”. Exactly.

somebody asked me to comment on their parody site

> not bad. seen bet­ter. the thing is, YOU KNOW it’s a parody site when
> you read it. I would’ve made it a so nobody would guess it was a
> parody unless they dug dee­per.
>
> I call this “not flinching”. Seems to me, you flinched.
[SUGGESTION:] This, howe­ver, in my opi­nion is the best parody site ever crea­ted. Abso­lute genius.

extra extra read all about it.

SOMEBODY HIRE PIERS:
PSFK foun­der, Piers Faw­kes, is loo­king for some new cha­llen­ges. Need a little advice? A whis­per in the ear? A hint? A sug­ges­tion? A full blown plan? With over 13 years expe­rience, Piers has deve­lo­ped inno­va­tive brand and mar­ke­ting stra­te­gies with some of the world’s lea­ding brands (and their agen­cies) and now he’s loo­king to hold the hands of a few more.

travelling tailors

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[I wrote/drew this one on a Metro tic­ket when I was last in Paris.]
Like I said ear­lier, Tho­mas and I shall be in Paris on Mon­day, April 25th. Actually, it’ll be part of a lon­ger, Saturday-to-Tuesday visit.
Some Pari­sian Savile Row cus­to­mers have deci­ded they like English Cut; we’re going there to meet with them.
The Pari­sian mar­ket for Sal­vile Row is actually rather large, and much of it untap­ped. So the offi­cial plan is for both Tom and I to visit there once a month from now on.
Paris. Selling Savile Row suits. Once a month.
Yes, I am exci­ted. Who wouldn’t be?
Here’s our basic tra­ve­lling plan:

Already Deve­lo­ped:
Lon­don. Once every 7 – 14 days, depen­ding on the busi­ness.
Paris. Once a month.
New York. Once every 3 months.
Under Deve­lop­ment:
Mos­cow. Once every 3 months.
Dubai. Twice a year.
Asia. Hong Kong and/or Tokyo. Twice a year.
Milan. Twice a year. Huge market.

I think that’s plenty of tra­ve­lling for now.

marketing lesson

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Nice little mar­ke­ting les­son from English Cut.
You want peo­ple to take you seriously? Recom­mend your competition.

March 21, 2005

if my apartment

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March 20, 2005

e-mail exchange with seth godin

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I recently e-mailed Seth Godin some ques­tions regar­ding his terri­fic new book, “All Mar­ke­ters are Liars”, and he kindly wrote back with some ans­wers.
HUGH [ita­lics]: 1. You’re most famous for “The Pur­ple Cow”. Pur­ple cows are cute. Then you had “The Free Prize”. Free pri­zes are cute. Before those two you had “The Idea Virus”. Maybe not quite so cute, but still, pretty nifty soun­ding. But in your latest book, you have “The Lie”. Lies are neither cute or nifty. Did your edi­tors have a pro­blem with this?
SETH [no ita­lics]: They did! So did the sales­force at the publisher. But I per­sis­ted.
There’s HUGE iner­tia at most every com­pany to do the safe thing, not the remar­ka­ble thing.
So far, it appears that I’m right. My rea­ders “get it.” They’re quite inte­lli­gent folks, actually.
2. The word I asso­ciate with you the most is “Remar­ka­ble”. In “Lies”, you seem to be telling peo­ple, “Look, if your pro­duct can­not gene­rate a remar­ka­ble story, then Q.E.D., quod erat demons­tran­dum, the pro­duct is not, by defi­ni­tion, remar­ka­ble”.
Actually, the most com­mon word is “bald” follo­wed by “slightly anno­ying” (which is two words, but who’s coun­ting.)
Yes, you got my point re. ‘Remar­ka­ble’ spot on.
I can see a pos­si­ble cause of con­ten­tion where peo­ple who buy your books or attend your semi­nars erro­neously thin­king, “Gee, maybe if I give Seth some money, my pro­duct will somehow end up less unre­mar­ka­ble than it currently is.“
Except I rarely do semi­nars, which aren’t par­ti­cu­larly pro­fi­ta­ble any­way. I want them (the rea­der) to figure out how to be remar­ka­ble, not for me to do it for them.
And I can see you ans­we­ring back, “This has nothing to do with me; make your pro­duct more remar­ka­ble and more peo­ple will remark on it more often. Deal with it.“
That sounds like me.
Do you ever get asked to wave a magic wand, even though you have never made any claims to be a magi­cian? And when you tell your poten­tial clients/readers that you pos­sess no magic, do they ever get upset/disappointed?
More like the heart­break of pso­ria­sis than upset. I’m pretty upfront about this, so so far, no real melt­downs.
3. A friend of mine, Jamie Fle­ming wri­tes fic­tion [His uncle, Ian also wrote some fic­tion, about a Bri­tish spy or wha­te­ver]. Jamie’s great line that I always remem­ber is “Non­fic­tion doesn’t exist”.
Or, as my tenth grade art teacher once told me, “All art is a lie”. (“Ceci n’est pas un pipe” etc, “The map is not the terrain” etc)… The story about the pro­duct is not the actual pro­duct. But if you can believe “The Lie”, then oh yes it is.

YES!
This is roughly how I inter­pre­ted your defi­ni­tion of “The Lie”. And this allows you to con­ten­tiously name your book “All Mar­ke­ters Are Liars”, which pro­bably means more sales than if you’d named your book “All Mar­ke­ters Are Story­te­llers”. And since you’re in the busi­ness of telling peo­ple how to sell and being remar­ka­ble, to not do something remar­ka­ble to inc­rease sales would not be good for “Brand Seth”.
“Pur­ple Cow” is a great metaphor “Free Prize” is a great metaphor. “Idea Virus” is a great metaphor. I think “The Lie” is also a great metaphor, the obser­va­tion it makes is bri­lliant, but equally I can see your ave­rage mar­ke­ting pro­fes­sio­nal get­ting all snitty about it.

I hope so.
“That man just called me a liar! How dare he think that when I tell the world that my value mouth­wash has all the great, fresh, minty taste they crave at only half the price of the lea­ding brand, I am somehow lying! I am not plea­sed! I am angry and I demand jus­tice!” etc etc etc.
Where do you think your ideas are alig­ned with mains­tream, cor­po­rate, MBA-inspired mar­ke­ting, and where do you see your­self par­ting com­pany?

Oh, I par­ted com­pany with these guys on Sep­tem­ber 12th, 1982 when they almost threw me out of my first class at the Stan­ford Busi­ness School. Every word you just said was true (if anything can be true). By the way, I think I once saw a movie about a book from your friend’s uncle.
What a cool thing to have an uncle like that. My uncle is a law­yer.
I part com­pany with mar­ke­ters at the sel­fish part. Mar­ke­ters are sel­fish, because they think they can get peo­ple to pay atten­tion just by buying media or shelf space.
5. How has “Brand Seth” evolved/changed/mutated over the last 5 – 10 years? What are you hap­piest about? Unhap­piest about? What con­cerns you/excites you the most about “Brand Seth” and its future path?
I think the brand has evol­ved a great deal. I’m a lot more mature and a little bit more con­fi­dent and less manic. I also see a bit more of the big­ger pic­ture.
My big con­cern is that I have no ideas left at all, and I’m just retrea­ding the most recent book until something comes to me. Which it usually does, but still… That, and I wish I could get the peo­ple pla­ying at safe at the big brands and in some of the poli­ti­cal par­ties to take a deep breath and do something while there’s still time.
I also believe who­lehear­tedly that it’s all mar­ke­ting (poli­tics, jobs, etc.) but some­ti­mes my rea­ders hesi­tate to go there.
6. Who’s your tai­lor?
I had this Ita­lian guy named Gior­gio, but I’m scou­ting for a new one. Suggestions?

“bespoke weekend”

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Just got a quite inte­res­ting e-mail:

Hi Hugh,
I prod­ded Beppo at the Isle of Eriska hotel into blog­ging last time I sta­yed.
He’s got it off the ground and I won­de­red if he could swap links with your friend Tom. The two of them could work out a very appea­ling pac­kage  — a cou­ple of nights in a five star hotel on a Scot­tish island com­bi­ned with cloth-choosing, mea­su­ring up etc for a fine English bes­poke Savile Row suit. I’d go for it (if I had the cash).
Hell, I’d blog it.
Cheers,
Neil

Sounds groovy. I’ll bounce it off Tom later today.
I think it’s a great idea. Don’t you?
As I’ve said ear­lier, I’d be really inte­res­ted in deve­lo­ping this side of the busi­ness.
Tra­ve­lling round the world, sta­ying in luxury hotels, giving the full-on “Bes­poke Wee­kend” treat­ment to their best cus­to­mers. I pretty much know who are the best tai­lors on Savile Row [in fact, here they are], and none of them are really doing it.
If any­body has any con­tacts in the luxury hotel busi­ness, please, Tom and I do want to talk to them. Please show them this page, and perhaps also the link to English Cut. Thanks.
Pro­bably best to e-mail Tom or me here: info AT thomasmahon.co.uk
[PS: The hotel URL is http://www.isleoferiska.com if that helps.]

required reading

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If you’re in the mar­ke­ting busi­ness, you could say there’s a list of mar­ke­ting blog­gers that any­body who really knows what’s going on would safely call “Requi­red Rea­ding”.
Robert Sco­ble. Check.
Doc Searls. Of course.
Seth Godin. Yep.
Evelyn Rodri­guez. If you wor­ked for me, and didn’t read her often, I would fire you.
Jeff Jar­vis. Not really a mar­ke­ting blog­ger, he’s more inte­res­ted in Media and poli­tics, but anything worth tal­king about in the blo­gosphere rarely esca­pes his atten­tion.
And there are others, too many to men­tion. If this space inte­rests you, your list pro­bably wouldn’t be that dif­fe­rent than mine.
One per­son who pro­bably isn’t on the macro Mar­ke­ting “Requi­red Rea­ding” list, but I think should be, is London-based John­nie Moore.
He’s what I would call a “quiet” blog­ger. His stuff may not blow you away on first rea­ding, but after a while it starts sin­king in, in a really reso­nant way. Great stuff. Hope he keeps at it.

March 19, 2005

“living vicariously through my future self”

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We all have dreams. I’ve had plenty over the years.
Get­ting my car­toons published one day. Get­ting my book published one day. Lan­ding an adver­ti­sing job that didn’t totally suck one day. Moving to New York one day. Moving back to New York one day. Get­ting my name men­tio­ned on X’s blog one day…
One day. It’s always “One day”. My term for it is “Living vica­riously through my Future Self”.
It’s funny how the dreams are all now fading for me, but in a good way.
: My car­toons are now “well known” enough. I’m per­fectly happy with the size of my audience. Not too big, not to small. And a large chunk of them (you) seem to be kind, smart, thought­ful, inte­res­ting peo­ple, which is even more gra­tif­ying.
And yes, I’m gene­rally happy with the ove­rall qua­lity of the work. It’s about as good as some­body with such third-rate wri­ting and dra­wing talent as myself could ever hope to expect. Plus I never had to sell out, nor did I ever have to starve to death.
: The blog­gers I admire the most, some well-known, some obs­cure, I link to them, and they link back to me for the most part. Accor­ding to Tech­no­rati, my links ran­king puts me well in the Top 300, out of eight million blogs. So traf­fic isn’t exactly a pro­blem.
: The adver­ti­sing industry to me is irre­le­vant. Very little in that industry I find even remo­tely inte­res­ting, let alone inte­llec­tually honest. Right now I have four adver­ti­sing pro­jects on the go (five if you inc­lude English Cut), but I’m not see­king out more work in this area. I’ve writ­ten the Hugh­train. I said what I wan­ted to say, and have since moved on.
: New York is far too expen­sive and over-the-top for a tight High­lan­der Scots bas­tard like me.
: The books, the t-shirts etc… they’re fun, but none of it’s a money gig. I’m pri­ma­rily doing it because my rea­ders asked me to. The peo­ple who want them will buy them, and that’s abso­lu­tely won­der­ful, but I’m not bothe­red about the peo­ple who don’t. Trust me, in terms of time, stress and effort, it’s a lot easier selling $4000 worth of bes­poke suits than selling $4000 worth of t-shirts or blog­cards.
I’m star­ting to see a pat­tern here.
All these dreams seem to have been repla­ced by the sin­gu­lar, sim­ple wish to see “I’m inte­res­ted in buying a suit” sit­ting in the English Cut e-mail inbox when Tom or I check it in the mor­ning.
And that’s not something you really dream about. It’s either sit­ting in the inbox or it isn’t. Drea­ming has nothing to do with it.
It’s real.

March 18, 2005

in paris april 25th

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Tho­mas and I will be in Paris on April 25th for the big blog con­fab at the Senat, orga­ni­sed by Loic.
This will be cool because:
1. A lot of peo­ple will be there I’ve been wan­ting to meet for a long time. And some folk I already know who I’m always glad to see.
2. Loic’s asked me to draw car­toons live during the talks, pro­jec­ting them onto the wall behind the spea­kers, using some sort of pro­jec­tor gizmo thin­gie.
3. Tho­mas and I shall be wea­ring our Savile Row suits.
Should be a fun weekend.

i’ve started blogging

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March 17, 2005

history of english cut

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[UPDATE: Big Kudo’s to Rober Sco­ble for lin­king to English Cut. Thanks, Robert!]
With all the English Cut busi­ness going crazy at the moment, it sud­denly made me think of all the feed­back I recei­ved about the idea of a blog­ging tai­lor, before I had con­vin­ced Tho­mas to start a blog, when I first broached the sub­ject with my rea­ders here and here:

“It seems to me that a blog is pretty inap­pro­priate as a web­site for a tai­lor. Perhaps it’s appro­priate to use a blog engine to main­tain his web­site, which will make it easier for him to main­tain the con­tent, but I fail to see why a tai­lor would want to keep an online diary as the online face of his busi­ness.“
“I guess what I’m afraid of is that we’re tal­king about a small niche mar­ket. Lots of peo­ple online like to talk about com­pu­ters, gad­gets, movies, and all kinds of things. Maybe I’m wrong, but I don’t ima­gine that too many peo­ple have much to say about suits (as nice as they are, and as much as I’d like to be able to afford one)… If Tom starts a blog, and there’s no con­ver­sa­tion, that’s going to look kinda silly. Wouldn’t that be detri­men­tal to busi­ness?“
“I don’t hear that many peo­ple tal­king about suits, espe­cially online, and I’m don’t believe that star­ting a blog about suits will change that.“
“Peo­ple like Tom need a blog as much as a fish needs a bicycle… The typi­cal Savi­lle Row cus­to­mer is not a blog rea­der. He, in all likelyhood, doesn’t even know what a blog is. And even if he’d knew, why read about what one’s tai­lor has to say? He’s there to make suits, as long as he does that well he’ll have a mar­ket… Tom needs to offer supe­rior ser­vice and style to a mar­ket that tends to be extre­mely loyal to ‘their’ tay­lor, once that rela­tionship has been built.“
“Direc­ting a con­ver­sa­tion with your cus­to­mer base is a great idea. Assu­ming peo­ple fly to Lon­don to buy a hand tai­lo­red suit because they want to inti­mi­date their beta male coun­ter­parts is silly… 90% of the suits on Savile Row are good enough for the most disc­ri­mi­na­ting buyer. Its the buying expe­rience that will make one tai­lor more suc­cess­ful than another.“
“A blog­ging tai­lor is not what is nee­ded, howe­ver the con­cept of being the sub­ject of con­ver­sa­tion is. I’d have thought that, with Savile Row tai­lors and that ilk, word of mouth is the key in the bes­poke suit buying Alpha-male mar­ket. I just don’t think that blog­ging is the be-all ans­wer to that.”

It’s ama­zing to think that these com­ments are only a few months old. But that’s inter­net time for you.
So Robert, what did they say to you when you said you were going to start blog­ging about Mic­ro­soft from the inside?

all marketers are liars

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Seth Godin, my favo­rite mar­ke­ting wri­ter kindly sent me an advance copy of his new book, All Mar­ke­ters Are Liars. Just finished rea­ding it.
Well, what can I say? If you like his blog, then you’ll like this book.
The thing I like about Seth’s wri­ting is his abi­lity to make things appear so obvious that you end up belie­veing you knew it already.
There’s one sen­tence on Page One:

“Either you’re going to tell sto­ries that spread, or you’ll become irrelevant.”

That sin­gle line, in my opi­nion, is worth the price of the book.
But hey, I just told you the line, so now you can save your­self twenty bucks, right? Wrong. You need to read the whole thing to unders­tand exactly what he’s tal­king about. For it to really sink in.
The point of the book is not that all mar­ke­ters are all liars, but that they’re story­te­llers. Their job is to make up sto­ries good enough to where the buyers no lon­ger care that they’re com­pli­cit in belie­ving them– i.e. we believe the lie. We know Apple won’t turn us into rock stars, we know Har­ley David­son isn’t going to free us from our dreary jobs. But we like the story any­way. We believe the lie, and it’s the story that gives us per­mis­sion to do so.
The thing about Seth that some peo­ple find quite inti­mi­da­ting is that he offers the rea­der nowhere to hide. He doesn’t write books about “How to sell your crap-ass pro­duct for more money.” He cha­llen­ges you. Everything he wri­tes inva­riably asks the ques­tion, “Why waste your time selling crap-ass pro­ducts?“
Why waste your time trying to sell something you can’t tell a good story about?

maybe if

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the tao of undersupply

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The t-shirt thing is coming together nicely. Plan­ning on launching circa first week in April.
Tal­king to my manu­fac­tu­rer– a very smart fellow– about busi­ness issues in gene­ral.
We both con­cur that the big­gest pro­blem in the Wes­tern world is over­supply.
For every mid-level mana­ging job ope­ning up, there’s sco­res of peo­ple willing and able. For every com­pany nee­ding to hire an ad agency or design firm, there’s dozens out there, willing and able. For every per­son wan­ting to buy a new car, there’s tons of car makers and dea­lers out there. I could go on and on.
I could also go on about how many good peo­ple I know are caught in over­sup­plied mar­kets, and how every day they wake up, fee­ling chi­lled to the bone with dread and unease. Adver­ti­sing and media folk are clas­sic exam­ples.
So maybe the thing is to is get into “The Tao of Under­supply”.
If only 100 peo­ple want to buy your wid­gets, then just make 90 wid­gets. If only 1000, make 900. If only 10 million, make 9 million. It isn’t roc­ket science, but it takes dis­ci­pline.
It also requi­res you to stop making the same stuff as other peo­ple. Doing that requi­res ori­gi­na­lity and inven­tion.
Like it said in “How To Be Crea­tive”, don’t try to stand out from the crowd, avoid crowds alto­gether. Again, it isn’t roc­ket science.
That why all the t-shirts will be limi­ted edi­tion. Actually, I think everything I make from now on will be limi­ted edi­tion in one way or another.
What about your stuff?

March 16, 2005

“it’s like watching the buggy whip industry getting a whip made mandatory for every car”

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Bri­lliant article from Hamish:
Would You Like to Buy A Soviet Pho­to­co­pier, Tso­va­rich?

Want something that even Sta­lin wouldn

what’s the sony story?

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Good article from The New York Times:
How the iPod Ran Circ­les Around the Walk­man

“SYNERGY AND OTHER LIES” would be a good first rea­ding assign­ment for Sir Howard Strin­ger, Sony’s new chief exe­cu­tive, to be follo­wed by “The Synergy Myth.” Then Sir Howard should recog­nize that the Sony he inhe­rits is cons­ti­tu­tio­nally inca­pa­ble of making one (elec­tro­nics) plus one (enter­tain­ment) equal three.

Sir Howard now pre­si­des over a com­pany that appears — super­fi­cially — to be the polar oppo­site of an ITT-like con­glo­me­ra­tion of unre­la­ted busi­nes­ses. Sony is accus­to­med to thin­king of itself as con­sis­ting of two well-matched hal­ves: elec­tro­nics and enter­tain­ment. At the Con­su­mer Elec­tro­nics Show last month, Sir Howard obser­ved, “A device without con­tent is nothing but scrap metal,” a pla­ti­tude beneath men­tion — unless, perhaps, one were a mite defen­sive about owning both a wid­get fac­tory and an enter­tain­ment factory.

“A device without con­tent is nothing but scrap metal.” Bad argu­ment. It’s like Ford buying the State of Ore­gon. “A car without a des­ti­na­tion is nothing but scrap metal.“
So what busi­ness are Sony actually in? I’m con­fu­sed. What’s impor­tant to them? I have no idea. Do any of them own blogs worth tal­king about? I don’t know of any.
A com­pany doesn’t need “synergy”. A com­pany needs a cause.
What’s the Sony story? They don’t seem to have one, except for “We make lots of stuff we want you to buy.“
Is that a story they actually want to tell? A story they want to spend x-zillion on adver­ti­sing in order to get across? Seriously.
But if Sony does indeed have a story, please do let me know what it is. I’m curious now.

March 15, 2005

hughtrain wine biz

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I have star­ted taking an inte­rest in the wine busi­ness. Two ques­tions:

1. Can anyone recom­mend me some good wine blogs worth rea­ding? If so, please leave the URL in the com­ments.
2. Does any­body fancy wri­ting a Hughtrain-savvy wine blog for a client of mine? If so then please drop me an e-mail. Sure, there could be some money in it.

I’m already tal­king to one per­son, but there’s more than one blog­ger nee­ded.
The blogs I have in mind will, like English Cut aspi­res to do in its industry, is create the “Smar­test Con­ver­sa­tion” on the pla­net about wine and the wine industry, bar none.
I want to kick the wine busi­ness in the teeth. So does my client. We’re loo­king for allies.
Any ideas would be most gra­te­fully received.

March 14, 2005

dear fred…

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Let’s say your name is Fred. Hi, Fred.
Let’s say you’re the edi­tor of a very large, well-known Lon­don news­pa­per.
And let’s say, not too long ago, you called up my bes­poke Savile Row tai­lor friend, Tho­mas and boo­ked an appoint­ment because you wan­ted a new suit.
And let’s say Tho­mas tur­ned up and gave you a mea­su­re­ment.
So let’s say you wan­ted to order two suits, but wan­ted a deal, in exchange for an inter­view in your paper.
And let’s say Tom deci­ded a bit of expo­sure would be just the thing to rev up his busi­ness, so he agrees. And let’s not kid our­sel­ves, it’s kinda flat­te­ring to be asked. Makes you almost think your big moment is about to arrive.
So let’s say the deal ended up being that you orde­red a grey suit at full price, but offe­red to give Tom an inter­view in the paper you edit, if he threw the second blue suit in for free. Two for the price of one, basi­cally.
So let’s say you shake on it, and Tom goes away, and buys the cloth out of his own poc­ket for the first grey suit, with your bles­sing, because somehow you have con­vin­ced him that you didn’t need to leave a depo­sit yet, what, with this big inter­view coming up and all.
And then let’s say Tho­mas cuts the cloth, and gets it sewn, ready for your first fit­ting. Again, all out of his own poc­ket.
And let’s say when all is ready, you keep can­ce­lling mee­tings with Tom at the last minute, after Tom has already spent half a day dri­ving down to Lon­don to meet you at the pre-arranged time. More than once. Again and again. Even your per­so­nal assi­sant is emba­rras­sed by your beha­vior.
And let’s say this keeps on hap­pe­ning till finally, you send Tom a hand-written note saying “Sorry, I’ve chan­ged my mind… I don’t think I want to give you any money, either… but let’s talk about doing that inter­view later on, eh?“
And let’s say the rea­son you gave for chan­ging your mind was beyond lame. Something to do with your nee­ding your girlfriend’s per­mis­sion before deci­ding on the second blue suit’s fabric choice, and because she lives far away she can’t come in and meet you two. Even though her input has nothing to do with the grey suit, the one Tho­mas has already she­lled out for in order to get made. What­ver. Like I said, beyond lame.
Now let’s say it’s a few weeks later, and Tom’s new blog is sud­denly doing awfully well. And let’s say his friend is a pretty well-known blog­ger, with a pet peeve against asshole big-media types who fuck with honest tra­des­men, just because the scum­bag thinks because he’s got the big editor’s job, it’s somehow OK.
Don’t worry Fred, I’m not going to reveal your real name. I only know one side of the story, maybe there was a misun­ders­tan­ding, maybe there’s some stuff mis­sing from the equa­tion I don’t know about, wha­te­ver. Maybe Tom was a bit naive to trust you, and maybe he unde­res­ti­ma­ted the corrup­ting affect that peo­ple who offer media favor can have on one’s affairs. Edu­ca­tion is expen­sive.
Besi­des, I know the cir­cu­la­tion num­bers of your paper. Seems you’ve already got enough to worry about.
What’s more inte­res­ting to me is how, with his blog, Tom no lon­ger has to rely on your kind to give his busi­ness the publi­city impe­tus it needs in order to remain via­ble.
A lot of these ‘arti­san’ busi­nes­ses like Tom’s tra­di­tio­nally live or die by whether or not some­body like your­self deci­des they’re worth tal­king about. You know it, I know it. It’s a lot of power in the hands of one per­son. But it’s unre­lia­ble. It has always been thus, but since there was nothing else to get the word out with, the arti­sans could be relied on to play ball, making you look good and sho­we­ring you with free­bies and favors.
But Fred, scum­bags like you no lon­ger mat­ter.
Now you’re no lon­ger the “Gate­kee­per” to the suc­cess of the arti­san. Hope­fully other arti­sans will spot Tom’s blog, and emu­late his exam­ple.
Another nail in the cof­fin of scum­bag, big-media, freebie-fattened, Gate­kee­per cul­ture, and I’m glad to be hel­ping drive it in.

sony and savile row

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Sir Howard Strin­ger is Sony’s new CEO. So now we have a Japa­nese com­pany, run by a New York-based Bri­ton who speaks no Japa­nese.
Joi Ito posts an open let­ter to Sir Howard:

I think you unders­tand Sony and have many of the things that Sony needs to become the glo­bal com­pany that Mr. Idei wan­ted it to be. My main con­cern is that you are quite immer­sed in the enter­tain­ment side of the busi­ness and I really believe that Holly­wood is taking an unrea­so­nably strong posi­tion on the copy­right issue and is impin­ging on the rights of users and ama­teur crea­tors. In your new role as the head of Sony, I urge you to try to take a more balan­ced and long-term view on the copy­right issues. I sug­gest you at least lis­ten to the rhe­to­ric of the “other side” and maybe start by rea­ding “The Future of Ideas” by Law­rence Lessig.

Paid con­tent is theo­re­ti­cally unne­ces­sary, or at least, get­ting more unne­ce­sarry by the day.
Anyone in the busi­ness of selling paid con­tent is in an industry where methods to get peo­ple like me spen­ding money are going to be at best, much har­der, and at worst, utterly devious and con­temp­ta­ble.
It’ll be inte­res­ting to see how Sony brid­ges the gap in the next few years.
Sony and Savile Row actually aren’t that dif­fe­rent. Neither one can make their pro­duct chea­per than their com­pe­ti­tors. Both live or die by how seriously they take design.

March 13, 2005

savile row sewers

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Lon­don was fun. I was there less than 48 hours, but that was plenty. Got some stuff done, saw a few peo­ple, caught the train back.
The high­light of my wee­kend was the time I spent on Savile Row; seeing it from an infor­med eye for the very first time. I loved every minute of it.
The funny thing about Savile Row is that yes, there are actual real tai­lors actually sewing stuff. It’s not just retail sto­re­fronts.
Walk down the Row and around the back streets. Look in all the base­ment win­dows, under­neath the stair­wells. Guys sewing in little workshops. There they are.
And the thing is; you have to be nice to these folk. If you just sold a cou­ple of suits to Mon­siuer Ambas­sa­dor, once you’ve desig­ned the pat­tern and cut the cloth, you need to find a free­lance tai­lor to sew it all together for you.
And he’s already busy. He’s pro­bably doing you a favor by taking the job on. And drop­ping Mon­sieur Ambassador’s name won’t phase him. He pro­bably was sewing for Monsieur’s boss the week before. So everything, and I do mean everything, is fue­lled by an inter­de­pen­dant sense of good­will. Something only given lip ser­vice in most orga­ni­sa­tions.
It’s a tight little com­mu­nity. They all know each other, they all rate each other. And news tra­vels fast.
More than once, a tai­lor approached Tom on the street this wee­kend, said he’d heard Tom’s been busy lately, and han­ded Tom his phone num­ber.
Happy to sew for you, great news on your web­site, call me if you need anything etc.
This explains why Tom’s site hasn’t been upda­ted in almost a week. Yes, he’s got­ten busy. English Cut is almost wor­king too well. Mana­ging the “inc­rease in demand” has eclip­sed “lack of demand” as the big­gest busi­ness issue in less than two months.
Tom and I are both quite stun­ned, to be honest.
[ALSO:] English Cut gets a men­tion in Slate. Very cool.

sunday update (still in london)

Still in Lon­don. Was down on Savile Row yes­ter­day. Inte­res­ting place. Sur­pri­singly small, perhaps the length of 2 – 3 New York City blocks.
Got to visit all the pla­ces Tom has tal­ked about on English Cut.
Any­way, I’m here till tomo­rrow.
A few things have deve­lo­ped recently, which means I’m going to be really busy for the next while.
Rock on.
[UPDATE:] Back home. Left Lon­don at lunch­time. More later.

March 12, 2005

in london

I’m in Lon­don at the moment. Back this eve­ning. More later…

March 10, 2005

second thoughts.…

OK, having second thoughts.… ermmmmmm…
What “blog­ging” t-shirt should I debut with?
This one (“Was it good for you?”) or this one? (“I’m blog­ging this”)?
Can we please have a con­cen­sus?
The other 3 choi­ces I’m fine with.
Thanks.

t-shirt update

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These are the four t-shirt designs I plan on debu­ting with:
1. I’m blog­ging this.
2. The Mar­ket for something to believe in is infi­nite.
3. XYZ Com­plete fuc­king asshole.
4. I can’t take this shit any­more.
Unless they’re mass howls of pro­test, that’s not a bad start.
Another thought: Though I will start with 200 shirts in a limi­ted edi­tion, I reserve the right to raise or lower that num­ber in future edi­tions, if the demand jus­ti­fies it. Maybe the “200” num­ber is rea­lis­tic, maybe it isn’t. I’ll know more as events unfold, and will keep you upda­ted.
But I won’t reprint a design, once it’s been relea­sed.
Secondly, I’ll have a subsc­rip­tion ser­vice for peo­ple who want to collect them all. So a new design is auto­ma­ti­cally sent to you upon release, and money is auto­ma­ti­cally deduc­ted from your cre­dit card, until you elect to unsubsc­ribe. Thanks to Mar­kus for sug­ges­ting that idea.
Obvioulsy, to subsc­ribe right away I’d need to take a large chunk of money off you, to pay for four shirts. I might spread that out over monthly pay­ments or wha­te­ver.
Sounds like a plan?