February 3, 2005

all very exciting

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A for­mer collea­gue talks trash online about my bes­poke Savile Row tai­lor friend, Tho­mas Mahon.
Tho­mas rips the poor chap a new asshole:

4. While I was at A&S [Ander­son & Shep­pard, their old alma mater], Mr Bea­man was pri­ma­rily an alte­ra­tion tai­lor. But he was never an actual cut­ter, at A&S or any other com­pany on The Row since, that I know of. In 1993, while I was there, he was sac­ked from his job for rea­sons of beha­vior I’d rather not talk about (and neither would he, most likely), but others on The Row pro­bably will, if you asked around. Feel free.
On his web­site, he said he left. He did not leave. He was fired. On my web­site, I said I left A&S. That is true. Also, unlike Darren, I was also offe­red a large pay rise to stay, which I dec­li­ned.

8. On his web­site, he said:
Darren has wor­ked in Savile Row for 23 years, begin­ning as a 15-year-old appren­tice with the renow­ned tai­lo­ring house Ander­son & Shep­pard. Devo­ted from the begin­ning to lear­ning and exce­lling at his craft, he was mar­ked out from his ear­liest days as pos­ses­sing that ‘je ne sais quoi’ — a tailor’s eye, a feel for fabric, and an abi­lity to com­mu­ni­cate effec­ti­vely with a client — that dis­tin­guishes the most mas­ter­ful and res­pec­ted tai­lors from their peers.

Yes, Darren was a good tai­lor. But he was pri­ma­rily an alte­ra­tions tai­lor, he was never an A&S cut­ter. He cer­tainly was never thought of a “mas­ter tai­lor”, nor thought of as “dis­tin­guished from his peers”.
An alte­ra­tions tai­lor is never allo­wed to deal with cus­to­mers, unless being invi­ted by the cut­ter under very rare cir­cums­tan­ces. Nor was the pros­pect of Darren ever being let into the front shop as a cut­ter ever con­si­de­red an option for the future, even before the unfor­tu­nate beha­vior which led directly to his sac­king. Yes, I have spo­ken to a for­mer direc­tor who will back me up on this.
9. He says on his web­site that he wor­ked on the suits of HRH Prince Char­les. Yes, he did. As the alte­ra­tions tai­lor. Under me. I was the cut­ter. I dealt directly with The Prince. Darren never met him.

As Clue­train says, mar­kets are con­ver­sa­tions. Be care­ful when you start them.

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12 Responses to “all very exciting”

  1. “Where every­body knows your name…”

    Be care­ful what you say and who you say it about. Tho­mas Mahon, the hot­test new blog­ger, was “dres­sed down” by one of his for­mer “collea­gues”.
    Tho­mas then dis­patches the cad with some of the shar­pest words I have heard for many a year.
    Bravo Thom…

  2. Wow, there’s nothing like a bit of con­tro­versy to ignite a blog. I agree with your bot­tom line Hugh!

  3. Josh Kaufman says:

    Damn… impres­sive reply. Love Tho­mas’ com­ment, “My work speaks for itself, and I can quite hap­pily live or die by my repu­ta­tion.” It’s nice to see a man who knows his worth without being arro­gant about it. My res­pect just twin­ged up a few notches…

  4. The man has bes­po­ken.
    If Tom’s as deft with a pair of shears as he is with a key­pad, he’s the mas­ter of two houses.

  5. David Zwarg says:

    Hugh,
    In the future, please refrain from using the expres­sion “rip a new asshole.” The mea­ning of that phrase is to rape a woman. While I unders­tood your sta­te­ment to mean “Tho­mas edu­ca­tes the poor chap:” or something of that nature, your ver­sion also refers to the sub­ju­ga­tion and vio­lent sexual assault of women.
    I hope that is not the mes­sage you are trying to com­mu­ni­cate to your audience.

  6. Katherine says:

    FWIW, David, I’m a woman and wasn’t offen­ded. I’ve actually never encoun­te­red your defi­ni­tion of the phrase.

  7. Barbara says:

    100% what Kathe­rine said.

  8. mg says:

    in david’s defense [and also in truth]:
    the phrase “rip him/her a new asshole” is in fact a refe­rence to rape, although not spe­ci­fi­cally male on female. it is a refe­rence to male on male rape.
    think about the lan­guage.
    not saying that anyone inten­ded to use that as a refe­rence, but often times we use phra­ses without neces­sa­rily kno­wing where they come from.
    over & out.

  9. David says:

    Hrm.
    I have since been correc­ted to note that it refers to male on male rape.
    Honestly, either way I think it’s an offen­sive refe­rence.
    I guess it takes someone you care about to get offen­ded before you rea­lize a sta­te­ment is offen­sive. The rea­son I say that is because I used to use that phrase, until someone I cared about told me what it refers to.

  10. hugh macleod says:

    Hmmmm… I was chec­king out the bac­klash against Darren (the chap whoo accu­sed Tho­mas) on the tai­lo­ring mes­sage boards (the main way Darren used to mar­ket him­self) since Tho­mas made his reply.
    And yeah, sud­denly it’s star­ting to look like a pri­son movie.
    Poor Darren is get­ting utterly shred­ded:
    http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4539
    http://66.170.193.77/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard.cgi?s=4202789a2d37ffff;act=ST;f=1;t=8305;st=0
    But he set him­self up as “the expert tai­lor” online… never thin­king that an actual, real, live, expert tai­lor would ever do the same (most world class tai­lors these days are well over 50… many have never even sent an e-mail)…
    What’s inte­res­ting to me is we’re used to tal­king about Cluetrain/Hughtrain stuff on a cor­po­rate level… but here it is wor­king very effec­ti­vely (frigh­te­ningly so) on a much sma­ller, “Brand You” scale.

  11. hugh macleod says:

    Oh, and the ori­gi­nal accu­sa­tion made by Darren has since been remo­ved by the mode­ra­tor.
    I guess he took pity on the poor man.

  12. Jon says:

    Wahey! An online argu­ment bet­ween two Savi­lle Row tai­lors, it couldn’t get much more English.